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Peak Mountain 3

Stuck in Time

FA Will Alford, 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start on the shallow right facing corner, that’s just left of That’s Reality. Climb easier terrain, avoiding as much loose rock down low, as possible. Move up past a few gear placements towards the first bolt, to establish yourself on the thin steep face. Clip the first bolt and get ready to test your technique and commitment. Continue up past two more bolts and some long runouts guarded by thin cryptic beta. While not the most strenuous climb for the grade, try not to pump out searching for holds before the end, because the last move is bold and exciting.

I named the route “Stuck in Time” because Eddie Begoon and Mike Artz originally put in the three bolts, but they never went back to send it. The route remained unclimbed since the early 90’s, until Eddie told me about it,

and gave me the go ahead to replace the bolts and try it. It’s in a more obscure area of Seneca but well worth the trip to it, even with some loose rock at the start of the climb.

Location

Left of That’s Reality, and right of Snickers, start on the shallow right facing corner, in front of the big tree. Approximately 20ft left of the big block at the base of Circumflex

Protection

Gear to 3 inches, micro stoppers, 000, 3 bolts, and a bolt anchor