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Peak Mountain 3

Amber

FA Howard Doyle, Stan Switala 1993
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A fantastic underrated route that sees very little traffic. It’s unlike anything else at Seneca. Climb a series of narrow right facing corner systems up and left until you can pull a bulge about half way going straight up out of the alley to an under cling. Then traverse left to the obvious right facing corner, up to a tree you can belay from on North Peak. The protection is adequate and probably should only be rated PG-13 but just to be safe, it is R in the guidebook and a fall may result in ping ponging back and forth between the two walls. If you’re confident in the grade climb it!

Location

Located about 20 feet inside No Dally Alley approaching from the south side. I believe the best way to get to it is to climb up Pine Tree Traverse to the alley. The climb follows a series of narrow right facing corners up the wall on the east side of the alley (the wall climbers right, if entering the alley from the south side).

Protection

Standard Seneca rack, gear to 3 inches, micro cams and micro stoppers are useful before the bulge. Tree anchor at the top.