Insomnia

Climb 25' up Buttress Chimney, the wide crack between the Sunshine Face & Buttress Of Cracks, and then enter a flared chimney (5.9) below a striking crack. Wiggle up the chimney and then launch directly into the crux, which can be jammed straight-on or lie-backed depending upon your hand size or preference. Higher the crack makes a jog left via a steep hand crack (5.10+) and finishes with some easy moves to a ledge with a bolted anchors.

Rappel (if slings are in place) or make an easy downclimb off the backside which leads to a notch where you can pick up a trail leading back to the base.

This classic crack is found on the left end of the Buttress of Cracks, just left of the classic

Double Exposure

arete, and facing towards the Sunshine Face.

Gear to 3 inches, bolted anchor