The Pirate

P1) A combination of tip jams and face moves down low gain the security of a knob, conveniently located next to the crack, above which the difficulty eases (5.11) and the crack opens up to accept better locks. Near the top of the first pitch traverse slightly right to a bolted belay; thin fingers or a lack of feeling in your fingers is a plus on this pitch.

P2) Back left into the crack and up the moderate (5.9) crack to the top. It's also possible to do this all in one pitch if so inclined. Belay atop Double Exposure and then descend the backside.

The first pitch is often popular to practice clean aid (C2) and is often attempted on toprope by climbing

The Buccaneer

to access the anchors.

Just right of

Double Exposure

's sharp arete.

Gear to 2 inches (include many thin nuts), bolted anchors