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Peak Mountain 3

Marshfield Corners

FA Chris Elms, Jed Elaides ,Andy Tuthill
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route does not dry well and has become somewhat dirty over the years although it's still worthwhile.

P1: Start on the ledge or do some unprotected friction bouldering. There is thin gear in the flake before moving left to better protection above. At the bolt in the slab continue left. Traverse way left (30 ft) quite unprotected and then up about 10 ft to the anchors. It's also possible to gain that ledge sooner with more difficult moves.

P2: Climb the left-facing corner to near its top. After the pin swing right around the corner.

P3: Climb left-facing corner, stem and laybacking. it takes thin gear especially at the bottom. Traverse left under the roof split by a crack. Big hold out left then continue to top.

Descent: Make four rappels on a single 60m rope. Rappel the corner system in two rappels to the bolted anchor at the top of P1. From the P1 anchor, rappel directly down towards an oak tree and a fixed anchor. One more rappel leads to the ground.

Location

When walking along the base this route is just where the trail starts to turn downhill, just past the boot in the tree. You'll see a big white patch of rock where the second pitch fell off the cliff.

Protection

All the anchors are bolted. A single rack will suffice up to a number 3. Lots of small gear.