- Edit (TBD)
Curving Crack
Description
Pich 1. Same Solipsism. 5.10a, 90 ft.Pitch 2 "Raiders of the lost Arch" : From the anchor, head up on difficult friction past 2 bolts to a shallow corner that takes gear . Continue up past bolts and gear a nice featured face to a small overlapping arch. Do some hardcore smearing and bouldering action to gain a perfect undercling, (follower should get the undercling before unclipping the bolt, to avoid losing their stance) then traverse left a few feet , maintaining those tenuous smears, until you can reach positive holds above. Pull through the roof, then head left to an anchor. 5.10+? (Not sure on grade) 100 ft.Pitch 3 "The curving crack" climb to the left, up a short corner. Reach right to clip a bolt, then make tricky moves up and right to reach the base of the corner/crack. Climb the splitter hand crack until it widens , (#4 cam size) follow the crack to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9 , 80 feet.Rappel the route with a 70. I think a 60 would work but no promises.
Location
Same as Solipsism.
Protection
Bolted anchor. Trad rack to #4. You could prob do without nuts.
Routes in Marshfield Ledge
- 13Curving Crack5.10+Trad