Fast Boat to China

This is the left crack system between

Politicians, Priests, and Bodybags

and

The John Roskelly Show

. The upper part is visible in the photo below as the right-leaning twin cracks on the left side of the photo.

This climb seems to involve devious powerful moves between large ledges. Start at an overhanging crack and reach up for a "thank god handhold". From this ledge, a very thin crack continues, but I was unable to get my fingers into this crack and it seems a bit over 5.8. If you move right a few feet, some devious moves will get you onto the next ledge at the grade.

The upper part of the route follows nice twin cracks, exiting using the left crack. There is no anchor on top, but if you belay from gear you can easily walk back down by walking east 50 feet to an easy gully. Alternatively, you can lower off the anchor for

Politicians, Priests, and Bodybags

, but this is somewhat awkward to reach.

Pro to 2.5" with emphasis on cams under 1". Closely-spaced 2 bolt anchor.