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Peak Mountain 3

Heidi Hi

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Description

This route starts at the same location as

Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags

, about 50' left of the painted 67. Climb up the right-facing dihedral as for

PP&BB

, but get onto the ledge to the left before you get to the first bolt. Then climb up a hand crack on a slightly overhanging face to a V-shaped slot and scramble up to the top.

The climbing is no harder than 5.8, but it's a bit tricky, and there aren't any rests above the ledge for a while, so gear-placement can be a bit tough. Not so good for top-roping, because the route wanders a bit and because it's a tough place to set up a good TR anchor. Nonetheless, the climbing is quite fun.

Protection

Several medium cams (about #1 or #2 Camalots, maybe a bit smaller for the bottom). Larger nuts may work in places, but are tough to set well. Long slings - the route wanders. Bolted anchor at the top.