Sparky's Cooler

From the dirt parking lot 9.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube look uphill and north west. The South Buttress/Slab is uphill 60 yards. Bushwhack up and right to the base of the climb, about 30 yards left the the gully that separates the North and South rocks of Mary's Bust. An alternate approach that has a better trail takes the main trail from the road that access the more vertical buttress and follow it around to the left or south till you get to the gully between the two main rocks. Angle up and left to the base of

The Beak

and Sparky's Cooler.

This is listed as 10a but is 5.7 or so if you do pitch 1a instead of 2a.Pitch 1A. Start under the bolt that is 15 feet up. Go up, traverse left past the bolt and up through a slot. Go a few more feet up and left, then traverse right to a belay (40 feet off the ground). This belay is on a ledge with a wedged boulder and a dead tree trunk. There are no bolt anchors.

Pitch 1B. Direct start. 15 feet right of the bolt for 1A. Climb up past one bolt to the bulging overhang and go up/left, then back right (10a) past 4 more bolts to a two bolt anchor which is 25 feet up and right from the start of pitch two below. A 1 1/2 to 3 inch cam may be beneficial in a crack behind and overlap/bulge between bolt 1 and 2. 90'.

Pitch 2. Follow the slanting seam up and right past a fixed pecker head and a lone bolt (5.5) to a bowl with 2 bolts (end of pitch 1B). Continue up the slot past two bolts (5.6). Wander up and slightly left past 3 more bolts (5.7) to a large ledge with 2 bolts and piton belay. 105'.

Pitch 3. From the anchors, go left and up 20 feet (5.7) past a lone bolt to a right-slanting, upward traverse behind the left side of the head wall (5.1) that ends with a 2 bolt anchor directly above the headwall crack on

The Beak

. The traverse takes gear to 4 inches but is easily climbed without gear. (One can toprope the crack 3rd pitch of

The Beak

from this anchor.) 110'.

Pitch 4. Move straight up the water slot stemming past 4 bolts (5.7), and then a bit of 5.3 to a two bolt anchor chain. 60'.

Rap off or walk of the the south. From here, you can hike left 50-60 yards to Moonlight Rock and Tick Rock.

6 draws/bolts, a couple with longer slings. The route does not take removable gear except in the left headwall pitch (5.1).

Eds. cams green Alien through #2 Camalot can help supplement the fixed gear.