The Beak

This is a good route with good crux pitch: a thin crack through a headwall. Allen Simons toproped this crack some years ago as a variation to

Sparky's Cooler

. Bernard Gillett and Simons created an independent line up the wall that runs parallel and right of

Sparky's Cooler

, aiming for the headwall crack.

Go around the left side of the main wall and up the gully on the west. Pass about a half-dozen large pines on your way to the high point along the base of the left buttress at Mary's Bust. Rack up near the highest pine tree, and then scramble up and right for 20 feet (4th Class) to a ledge system. Start here near a beak-shaped flake pointing right 15 feet overhead above 2 bolts. The bolt above the left side of the belay ledge is the beginning of the direct start to

Sparky's Cooler

.

Pitch 1: climb steep rock to the 2nd bolt, and then reach the beak. Move up and left through a bulge (reachy 10-). Climb up and right to a stance with chains, 10-, 85', 10 bolts.

Pitch 2: go up and right through two bulges (8, bolts), and then cruise past 3 more bolts. The pitch finishes with a ladder of buckets to a big ledge at the base of the headwall and a 2 bolt belay with chains, 5.8, 80', 5 bolts.

Pitch 3:  enjoy the slightly overhanging headwall crack with lots of cruxes to a grassy ledge with a bolted belay, 11-, 45', 5 bolts & gear.

Pitch 4: this is the last pitch of

Sparky's Cooler

. Climb 5.6 rock with a bolt above the belay, then run it out for 60 feet of 5.3 (R)to a ledge (bolts and chains on the left). Allen added 4 bolt to this pitch as it is useful as an approach to

Moonlight Rock

.

Note: the headwall crack lies beneath a water sluice (the last pitch) that drains the terrain above, so it can be wet.

This route is a logical approach to Moonlight Rock; walk left on the big ledge at the top.

It ascends the left buttress at Mary's Bust, beginning from the high point along the base, next to a tree. It is left of

The Devil's Backbone

(the approach to each differs only in the final 75 yards to the base) and right of

Sparky's Cooler

. See the topo on main Mary's Bust page.

Do 4 raps (80', 45', 85', 100'). Or, walk left on the ledge at the top toward Moonlight Rock, and scramble down between this rock and the left massif to the west.

~12 quickdraws and some of gear for the crux pitch (#0.5 and #0.75 Camalots, and a #7 hex). Pay attention clipping the 2nd bolt on the crux pitch, PG-13.