- Edit (TBD)
Description
Linkup between Doubt & Neglect, or just a harder finish to DoubtA good test of your comfort on technical Reef granite. Climb through all the hardest climbing on Doubt, which ultimately goes at around 5.13+ (see Doubt comments for explanation). Then, after the last hard crux of Doubt, instead of continuing up the described ‘smooth laybacks’ to the jug rest before the 5.12-5.11 climbing to the top, do an accurate foot stab & a reachy move left to the Crankbugs anchor/jug & clip a runner (reversing the moves you do for Jitterbugs link)Rest your mind here, because you’ve got 50 feet of techy stacked cruxes above you, a lingering pump, & a bass drum in your chest. Continue straight up into Neglect for a much harder & more sustained finish to another 40+ meter path up this section of Red Wall.
A futile & trivial ode to the wall and a reminder that climbing is silly & pointless unless you personally find meaning in it. An odd twist of fate but likely the last way I could think of to climb up the section of wall I’ve come to enjoy so much over the years.
Location
Starts as for Doubt, link into Neglect after bolt 14
Protection
20 bolts80m ropeeither skip bolt 15 or clip a long runner before linking into Neglect
Routes in Aegir
- 6Soul Deprived5.14-Sport