Rogue Planet

Rogue Planet is a visually striking, direct shot up the NW buttress of Aegir. Plenty of high quality, in-your-face climbing up great features.

The start is fairly obvious: just left of Direct Madness, a large flake forms a fat crack with a dihedral above. EFR checked out this system years ago, and eventually came down, as he wasn’t looking to aid through anything. Geir and I launched up the first pitch in early September, and placed 3 aid bolts on lead (later freed) through the 1st pitch crux.

P1: Easy face climbing past one bolt brings you to the jumbo flake. Some liebacking and chimneying spits you out at the base of the dihedral/arête. The pitch’s crux looms above and involves difficult edging up the arête past 3 bolts. This section has been done a couple of ways and both are similar in difficulty. Beyond the third bolt, a mini toilet-bowl flake leads to some lie back moves and a moderate run to the anchors. The hard climbing isn’t sustained, but it is really good and this pitch is pretty varied. 5.12b, 100 ft. 2 bolt anchor with biners.

P2: A relentless, beautiful pitch stretching to the top of Aegir. Past the 2nd bolt, make sure your shoulders and washboard abs are warmed up for a powerful low crux. A couple of small pieces and a marginal rest lead to more stiff climbing: edging and side-pulling up an island of climbable features, with blank real estate on either side. The huge horizontal weakness that slices the NW face offers not only a good rest, but also ample time to think about lobbing off in the last 80 feet of terrain. Some small but bombproof gear permits safe passage through a semi-insecure section, and then 4 bolts guide you up to and over the final battle: an outrageous, intimidating roof guarding the anchor. This last section could prove to be a heartbreaker. A finger or medium-sized cam can be placed before the anchor if desired. 5.12c, 130 ft. 2 bolt anchor.

Route can be descended to the ground by rapping the route with a 70 m rope. The first rap down to the 1st pitch anchors is close, so pay attention.

NW face of Aegir left of Direct Madness

Small to medium stoppers with brass being helpful, single set of cams from micro to #4 BD, probably 16-18 draws/runners to be safe. The only cam you may need doubles in is purple Metolius.