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Peak Mountain 3

Deseret Moon

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Description

Deseret Moon is a sweet, long splitter hand crack that is guarded by some interesting, difficult climbing off the ground. Approach by heading left along the wall for a good distance (300m?). Just past Tom Cat (a nice hand crack in a varnished corner) is this line.

The direct start is difficult 5.11 stemming up a stem box to a roof of sorts, protected by tiny cams and, formerly, a bolt (now just a hole). The indirect start heads up loose but easy cracks to the left and then traverses over to the ledge just above the direct start. From there you head up a finger crack and flake to a rest before embarking on the gorgeous perfect hands splitter to the anchors.

Two ropes to rap.

Protection

Single set of cams from small to #1 Camalot + several #2 Camalots. Either a #4 Camalot or a bunch of TCU's depending on the start you take.


Routes in Cat Wall


  1. 21
    Deseret Moon
    5.11
    Trad