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Peak Mountain 3

King Cat

FA Steve Hong
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An awesome route, with a little bit of everything, located right above the approach trail at Cat Wall. Starts off thin and goes through all the sizes to fists in a LF corner (10 feet of good hands for everybody) to a tenuous stemming stance. Now crank a wild layback (tcu protected) to a "rest", before pulling the even more wild off-hands, body-length roof. Many have on-sighted up to the very last awkward mantle into a bottomless wide crack by the anchors, only to be spit off by the bizarre sequence. If you're tall enough you can clip the anchors before doing this move. A 50 meter rope works.

Protection

Bring one each blue and yellow tcus, two orange, two red, one #2 friend, two 2.5 friends, two-three #3 friends, and 4-5 3.5 friends (3 camalots work a bit better at the roof)


Routes in Cat Wall


  1. 60
    King Cat
    5.11+
    Trad