- Edit (TBD)
Description
This was probably climbed at some point? As always, if someone has details, please let me know.
It is an excellent offwidth experience on great stone. A strenuous low crux is broken up with a good rest midway through the difficulties. After the first chockstone you can sling is reached the climb becomes more moderate (5.8ish) with a combination of crack moves and a lot of very positive face holds. I escaped right to the anchor at 25m from which you can lower with a 60m rope and because I had no big gear left. The crack certainly keeps going. It looks quite wide for a while.
This route was well protected with the rack below. I walked the two #6s through the crux, leaving one at the end of the crux and using the other one intermittently to protect getting to the chockstones which offer great protection options. The #5s and #6 protect the moves after the chockstines. Slings and a big bro or two were very useful.
Location
Hike up to the apex of the V. This route is on the West-facing (right) wall about 4 or so lines to the right of the V, starting with a bomb bay at the back of a sloping ramp. Immediately to the right of this line is a bolted line with an anchor at the 25m mark. This is the anchor you will aim for as your lowering point if you are doing the line as a crag pitch. If you go all the way up, please let me know, so I can modify this description.
Protection
(2) #6s, (3) #5s, nuts, 3 double length slings to sling chockstones, plenty of over the shoulder draws, and possibly a #3 and 4 Big Bro.
The anchor is a two bolt stainless steel glue in with clippable lowering points. This seems kind of modern for this place, but with the long hike in and out, I am always looking for efficiencies.
Routes in V-Mountain aka V Rock
- 12ROW (Right OffWidth)5.11Trad