Memory Lane

I feel like this has to have been previously climbed "back in the day" as I found nothing to clean on this great line.

Scramble up one of a few different options off the ground depending on your protection inclination. Angle up and left surmounting the triangular slab to a ledge. Look for the clean finger crack on the left wall, and commit! Gaining the next ledge gives you another rest. Above you looms the business. The next 8-10 feet gets you to a stance where you may want to reach out right to the shallow, flaring crack which has a good gear placements up high. Above this is the crux of the climb, which will probably be getting from here to the overhang for most people. Pulling the overhang is a bit easier if you pay attention to foot options. A few more strenuous moves get you to good holds, and the difficulty begins to back off. Angle left to the anchors on the

AC

/

DC

Arete. You need a 70m rope for this climb and should knot the ends!

This ascends the second crack to climbers' right of the

AC

/

DC

Arete. This is the crack immediately right of

Piece of Cake

and left of the

Unknown 5.9

It shares the first 20 feet with

Unknown 5.9

and the last 10 feet with

Piece of Cake

.

The route has a very obvious, tight, flaring dihedral section capped by a small roof.

Singles from your smallest cam to 0.2., triples from #0.3 to #2, and a single 3 and 4. Nuts work surprisingly well on this route. You will probably want 10 slings. The anchors are SS bolts with chains and biners that are at the top of the

AC

/

DC

Arete. This climb requires a 70m rope, and you should knot the end!