Achilles

Pitch 1: (5.5, 130 feet) This is an approach pitch with 2 ways to go. Either climb easy rock up tree-covered ledges on the left side of a pillar (as described in the Handren guide), or start on the right and climb up mossy slabs and right-facing corners to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.Pitch 2: (5.10c, 130 feet) Either climb boldly on tough slab moves to the first bolt or climb to the left to a long reach right to clip the bolt for a safer experience. (This bolt was barely out of reach for my 6-foot arms. We left a bite of cord tied to the bolt to help out. I would recommend a stiffy quickdraw or stick clip to avoid a ledge fall.) Continue up to another bolt and negotiate a tricky roof. Easier climbing leads to a right-slanting crack where one can put in gear before moving left to another bolt. Runout face leads to a chain anchor.Descent: 40 meter rappel to the ledge and another 40 meter rappel to the ground.

On the left side of the Cauldron Wall, left of the defining arete of Big Hat No Cattle.

Single rack to 2 inches. 80 meter rope or 2 ropes to get down. Watch the pull on pitch 2. Blocks on a ledge can grab it.