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Peak Mountain 3

The Regatta

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Description

The Regatta is a fun outing with good variety of climbing and fairly consistent difficulty.

Begin by scrambling up easy terrain to a sizable ledge - this is the same starting platform as for Waterboys.

P1 (115', 5.11b R): Climb a left-facing, sealed groove to a pin at 25'. This is insecure 5.10- and a fall would take you to the deck but it’s also possible to climb into the pin on mossy ledges to the left at an easier grade. Above the pin you will be happy to have brought a 00 C3 or black Alien and then a 0.3 Camalot or green Alien. Above, clip three bolts before a crux move accessing a unique broken crack system with good pro. Lastly, step right and clip two more bolts before moving back left to an anchor. This is an excellent pitch.

P2 (115', 5.11a/d): Climb off the belay past two closely spaced bolts that protect a very thin and difficult sequence (11d and the original line) or move left after clipping the first bolt and then up (11a). Either way, continue into an interesting chute feature and then follow a left-facing corner to a great belay ledge on the right.

P3 (115', 5.10b): Move right to a thin crack, and follow this up into the big, right-facing corner. Fun crack and squeezy climbing leads to another great belay ledge on the left.

P4 (90', 5.11a R): Three bolts above the belay protect a short slab with a punchy crux. This is followed by a very easy, but long, runout up a chossy mossy face to a belay below the final headwall.

P5 (100', 5.10c): Climb to the top of a large block on the left and clip a bolt. From here climb a hueco-lined crack before stepping right to the main crack system which is followed to bolted anchor above an awkward pod.

Rap with a single 70m rope - watch your ends.

Protection

1 each from 00 C3/Black Alien to #4 Camalot. Doubles from 0.3 to #2 Camalot. Wires. 70m rope.