Pin and Needles

A Lemmon trad sleeper classic? Imagine doing Honker's overhung-jug-fun...on gear! Really good gear, I might add. Throw in some good jams and locks and some sporty moves and you have a pretty dang fun route.Cruise Honker's lower crux with enough juice left to crest the small roof-crack on gear, and continue into the fun, all-gear-protected face for another 40'. This climb now sports another 15' of independent climbing to a brand new anchor, and has cleaned up nicely.Original Finish: Sling out the last few pieces in the widening chimney as you near the Pine in the Ass anchor, and either hand-traverse on over to it when you're about level with it, or climb the run-out face below and up to the anchor (not really recommended). Probably best not to fall. This finish makes the route painful to clean on lower, or...exciting for the follower.New finish: continue up the chimney on stems to a hero jug finish and the new anchor. There's a chickenhead to sling and good stoppers if you want them here, but it's comparatively easy climbing.Doing the Honker Direct start adds some 12+ to the adventure, of course.

Start on Honker's first three bolts. Instead of clipping the fourth (traverse bolt), stay left and plug in good gear. Follow the obvious crack system to the Pine in the Ass anchors.

OS rack: doubles 0.2-#1, singles 00,0, #2-#4, stoppers, slings, draws; RPs optional