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Peak Mountain 3

Peanut Brittle

FA Gene Drake, H. Haymond 1969
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From the main wall, it's obvious that there should be a route on the far left of the Hogs Back S. face. The cracks and slabs are messy, but surely it will go - we'll be up and down quickly and back in time for tea...

The first pitch leads up and slightly right before the problem starts to appear. The flake / crack system leading to the obvious anchor vibrates ever so slightly when you hit it. Some bits are worse than others. There's just enough decent places to put pro, and you continue up and left onto the flake curving up to a small roof, where you there's enough cracks to feel good about building an anchor.

From here, go slightly left, and up a small flared crack. There seems to be no easy way out here, but as the crack runs out, you can shuffle left over the ridge (great feeling of stepping into the unknown!) to find some bulbous features and an easy scramble up to the top, past a dead tree bent over in the shape of a Japanese Tori (watch out for rope drag here).

Worth climbing? Sure, but only if you like easy climbs on vibrating flakes; mostly it was fun because it was new and unknown. Not found in any guide book or on the web, so let me know if it has a pre-existing name / FA date.

Location

Rap off the west end of Hogsback, or bushwhack left from the Pony Express through a mess of trails and boulders to get to the two trees in a crack.

Start right of two bolted routes.

Protection

Double rack of cams, a few nuts, no bolts.