A Dream of Wind Horses

[posting this on behalf of Tad Welch - the description are his words, used with his blessing/permission. I have not climbed the route. Thanks Tad, for putting this out there! Tad assigned 2/5 stars, rounded off here to 2/4. ]

"A moderate alpine trad route that follows predominantly clean rock. The climbing is secure on the run out sections. The upper corner is unique for the cliff and excellent.

p1 (Note: I think that at least half of this pitch follows Mountaineer's Route) Climb easily up left-facing corner for 25 ft. to perfect cam placement. Step right and cross mellow slab and wide sloping ledge to wafer-thin flake holds (5.5) and 10 ft. tips crack. Belay on stance just above. 130 ft.

p2 Walk right on wide ledge, then up grass ramp to birch tree. High step right onto excellent rock (5.5) and continue to superb 6 in. ledge. 70 ft. (perhaps possible to combine p. 1 and 2)

p3 Continue up and right on clean, featured slab (5.2 R) to solid 3 ft. flake belay stance. 100 ft.

p4 Head a bit left, then straight up a nice, textured clean streak (5.4 R) to short dirty arch with good gear. Bypass arch on left to a garden belay just above. 120 ft.

p5 A short lead over moon rock leads onto the giant transverse tree ledge. Belay at base of prominent 60 ft. corner. 70 ft.

p6 The final pitch has two variations. 80 ft. V1: Climb short curving crack through bulge and continue just left of thicket using lots of hidden holds. Pass prominent balsam to hand crack and top of pinnacle (5.4 G) V2: Follow the impressive left-facing blocky corner (5.6 PG)"

"Start: Very obvious. Begin in fern garden on right edge of The Stage.

Descent: Rappel to tree ledge and scramble down and skiers' left through ferns and tight spruce to forest. From there it's about a 15 minute moderate bushwhack to Pyramid/Sawteeth trail."

"I've given protection grades of R to run outs with long fall potential but which are grippy, fairly easy, and quite clean. You could slide a long way - yet survive!"