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Peak Mountain 3

Return to Forever

FA Tad Welch (Sept 15, 2016)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

[posting this on behalf of Tad Welch - the descriptions are his words, used with his blessing/permission. I have not climbed the route. Thanks Tad, for putting this out there! Tad assigned 3/5 stars, rounded off here to 2/4. ]

This is a beautiful alpine route featuring clean and varied climbing interspersed with grass tufts and comfortable belays. (Note: Some of the smaller ledges on the South Face are botanical wonders and should be respected.)

p.1 The crack (5.6) leads to a short grass ramp and onto the easy slab above. Belay in shallow right-facing corner at intersection with blueberry ledge. (Note: This must be the same pitch as climbed by Matt and co.) 100 ft.

p.2 Go straight up highly featured face (5.5) to hidden left-rising crack. Run it out on pocketed slab to big left-facing overlap. Easy laybacking leads to grass hummocks and spacious belay. 120 ft.

p.3 The jigsaw corner pitch. Continue directly above ledge on more beautifully textured rock before traversing right across slab (5.7) to large left-facing corner. Fun climbing on puzzle piece holds and cracks bypasses the roof. Walk right to tree belay. 130 ft.

Location

"Start: At the lower end of the giant tree ledge is an appealing finger crack that is just right of a large, leaning right-facing corner. [MD: same as for Rockwork Orange]

Descent: Rappel with single rope to forest."

Protection

[MD: no info provided, but I assume standard single rack is recommended]