Dancin’ With The Devil

P1-3

The route shares the first three (short) pitches of "Unknown 5.10" on the East Face. 5.9?

P4

This one is a stretcher... C2

P5

5.7

P6

Head up the obvious right-facing dihedral. Dance around large loose blocks down low. Be delicate! Pull yourself through the bomb bay. A1

P7

Into the ‘Gaping Maw’. One drilled angle in chimney. A2+

P8

Traverse left. 5.9

P9

Head up. A2?

P10

Tits or Quits. Climb vertical cracks that lend way to soft horizontals. This pitch tops out on the ‘tower’. A2+

P11

From the top of the ‘tower’, follow an old piton ladder (left).

P12

Traverse left and around the corner.

After, grovel your way up and right through the loose gulley. 4th class

Keep moving up and right to a short 5.7 to the proper summit.

There is spectacular cave bivy after the 5th pitch and another stellar bivy could be made on the ‘tower’ above pitch 10.

Bomber hardware can be found at every belay that needs it!

Future parties should be aware of the loose blocks on pitch 6! They're manageable, but they're there.

Many pitches can be linked.

Descend the Angels Landing trail to the Grotto.

Park directly across from the east face. Locate the ‘Unknown’ 5.10’ route that’s listed in the Bird guide book. Follow the social trail to a shallow river crossing and head up the gully.

Beaks to big. Wild Turkey.