Peak Mountain 3

Eagle Canyon

Description

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This is Cochiti's "summer crag" offering more shade than other Cochiti crags. There are roughly 30 routes, many of which are in the 5.10/11 range, making this a good crag for intermediate climbers. Routes here tend to be longer than at the Mesa, with one excellent line featuring 13 bolts. Eagle Canyon is also home to Cochiti's hardest route, the excellent test piece Didgemaster.

In the height of summer this crag receives sun until about 1100am. On cooler fall and spring days, a small amount of sun hits the wall in the morning before the shade hits.

The bulk of the routes are on the South side of the canyon, but there are about 4 routes on the North sides of the canyon (3 moderates, and the 5.13 "Nikita"). The North cliff has the same aspect as the rest of the Cochiti cliffs, so these routes receive morning shade and afternoon sun.

The cliff on the South side of the canyon can be easily divided into two sections by a narrow "tunnel" that separates the cliffs between the routes Turkey Baster and Manhattan. This passage offers X-rated (dangerous, not pornographic) access between the two halves. Its also possible (and strongly advised) to use the cliff base trail system to move between the cliffs.


Local climbing organizations

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