-Shagg Crag

In my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.

Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.

Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.

Kayte on Shaggin Wagon