Peak Mountain 3

o. l'Aiguille de NJRG

Description

[Edit]

Remarkable big roof, above slabs. Which will prove to offer the better climbing? the roof or the slabs? Facing mainly South.

Cool weather days nice due to favorable exposure. Much is shaded by mature trees, so not as hot as might expect on hot days.

top-Roping: For setting up an anchor by the top of this cliff, likely simplest is to first hike/scramble up to sector Krauss, then gentle SouthWest and find the big rock which forms the top of the "aiguille". Setting up and belaying gets a bit tricky because most routes that go to the top of the cliff finish on the left (W) side ot the bit top rock. But setting the top anchor on the left side usually requires directionals for the lower climbing and tends to get significant rope drag when belaying in the normal TR way from the bottom. Setting the top anchor so the rope comes down through the big top roof can work pretty well for routes which finish under that roof (and do not go all the way to the top). Some ideas for dealing with this: * Routes which to to the top can be belayed from the top. * First do all the finishes of the routes which go to the top. Then do routes which finish under the top big roof. * Be careful to avoid twisting of the strands of the rope through the top anchor. * If the top anchor is set so that one strand goes over the other, make sure the strand to the climber is below the strand to the belayer.

warning: Routes which finish to the top are fairly long and using a normal dynamic rope for top-roping will result in substantial rope stretch if a climber falls near the bottom of the route, so they could hit something and get injured. Therefore consider instead using a static or "semi-static" rope, or instead belay from the top.

name: New Jersey Rock Gym offers the closest (30 miles) public indoor clmbing to Cranberry Hollow. NJRG has a long history of supporting preparation and training for outdoor climbing.

warning: Loose rock is still a concern in this sector. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber or underneath a leader setting up top anchor.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).


Local climbing organizations

[Learn more]

No organizations found for this area.

Do you know a great local organization? Let us know