Peak Mountain 3

Mt. Liberty, Franconia Notch

Description

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Don't know about earlier ascents. I climbed it in 1983 by several ways and with or without a rope all the crack routes are X without giant cams or tubes. North side is short and similar rock to Pinnacle Buttress, Huntington Ravine, Mt Washington and has the best protection. North side lines utilize smaller protection and center and south side are wide granite cracks that would require the largest cams or tubes. Too long a hike to bring up these heavy cams in my opinion. The center is a low angle ramp to a short head wall and left of it is the widest chimney like off width crack, right of center ramp are two off width cracks and furthest right access is diagonal horizontal crack to narrowest off width with finish. Belay is easily set up at summit for top roping everything and not much to anchor a belay at ledges base. Center is about 100 feet maybe more? South side is 30-40 feet. Much more potential for routes on south side. Helmet is a good idea here because people on summit may drop something or purposely throw something off. They will have no idea climbers are beneath them.


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