Prudential, The

The Prudential is a beautiful mostly overhanging cliff that is a little out of the way (meaning not crowded). Located west of the more popular (and populated) Waimea area. Though it's only about a 15 minute walk from Waimea it sees only a fraction of the traffic that it deserves.

The cliff faces south and many of the routes are steep and normally stay dry. These things make it a great winter crag, when the sun hits it on a cold winter day you would think it was still autumn. It should go without saying that it gets hot in the summer so plan accordingly.

There are some killer routes here including one of my favorite routes at Rumney, Stoned Temple Pilot (5.12a), this route and a few others at the crag feel a bit like climbs you would find at the Red River Gorge thanks to a band of honeycombed rock and the super overhanging nature of the climbing. Other faves include, The Premium (5.12c/d), Horned Behavior (5.12b), and Machine Head (5.11c/d). The mantel finish on Machine Head is worth the hike all on its own.

All "super classics" aside there are great sport climbs here from 5.10a to 5.12c/d. Even a few trad lines like Prudential Crack (5.8+), Wiggler Wants It (5.12a R) and the newer addition Losing Your Life and Living Through It 5.12c. The grades at Prudential tend to be solid "honest" grades, in other words you will have to earn what you send at any grade. So be prepared to work!

So next time you want to spice it up a bit, take a walk and check out this beautiful piece of schist. The routes are like nothing you've climbed at Rumney before and afterwards you will find yourself spraying to your friends about the sick routes you did without the noise and distraction of the everyday cliffs.