Iron Butte
Description
[Edit]Iron Butte is an interesting mix of climbs. One can find any thing from vertical and horizontal cracks to face climbing to walls made of blocks. The routes are all short, most can be done in one pitch. After finishing a climb, a top rope can be set up to protect more difficult climbs. There is good mixture of trad and sport routes, so bring your rack, as well as quick draws. On most climbs that reach the top, it is sometimes best to belay just below the top, as lack of protection can be problem at the top. Some of the climbs end at two-bolt anchors and in some cases you can rap off. Besides the named climbs at the butte, there are many short climbs ranging from very easy to extremely difficult, making Iron Butte a great place for beginners and experts alike.
Spring and fall are great when it's cooler, however, it can get windy at the butte. Remember, this is Nevada and the weather can change dramatically in a short time.
The rock quality ranges from poor to excellent. Expect the named climbs to be good to excellent quality.
Supplies can should be purchased in either Carson City or Dayton. There is a new Smiths grocery in Dayton, about ten miles from Iron Butte. Bring plenty of water in the warmer months, as once you hike up to the butte, you won't want to hike back down till you're done. If you are lucky you might spot a heard of Wild Horses. Rattle Snakes are very common here so be on the look out.
Iron Butte breaks into two primary sections, Right and Left Side. The routes included on both sides break down as follows (The routes are listed in order from north to south):
LEFT SIDE: Wild Women of Planet Playtex Grip-Master Red Beard Eagles Nest Dihedral Binkys Revenge No-Stick-Um Baboon Safari Local Crow-Motion Locally Owned
RIGHT SIDE: The Wall NYX Rolling Crow Au-Natural Beholders Eye Hanz-Solo Spuds
Local climbing organizations
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