Wright Peak

Does lugging gear 2 hours up a mountain to climb 5.6 half pitches sound like your idea of fun? If so then Wright Peak is just the place you've been looking for. Fortunately there is an officially designated wilderness campsite with room for several tents about .5 mile from the crag. The best idea would probably be to pack some camping gear and some extra PBR's and head on up in the late morning, set up camp and then do some climbing in the evening.

Although only about 40 to 50 feet high and maybe 150 feet in length the climbs here are quality routes in a great setting. The whole length of the crag is a latticework of cracks, so much so that without a topo it is a little hard to tell which route is which and where exactly they go. The most prominent landmark on the crag is the left angling chimney at about the middle point which is the route The Wright Wrong Chimney. Fifteen feet or so to the right of that is a large white spot about ten feet up with a shallow right facing corner to it's left and a similar left facing corner on it's right. Straight above this at the top of the cliff is an overhanging triangular block, these mark the start of a few routes including The Hole. To descend walk off to the climber's right and scramble down a 3rd class gully back down to the base.

The crag is located at around 3800' and the top is a wide open, flat expanse of rock without any trees and has an alpine feel to it which offers great views of all the surrounding mountains. All anchors must be built with gear and climbers should do their best to trample the alpine vegetation atop the cliff as little as possible.

The cliff faces SE and absolutely bakes in the sun all day until late afternoon with little or no shade to be found. Don't forget your sunblock and your Julbos. If you are staying at the campsite and you have one of those handy tents that you can set up just the rain fly with a groundcloth it might be a good idea to take that too and set up a little sun shelter to chill out in between climbs.

Check out Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas' guidebook Adirondack Rock and their website Adirondackrock.com for more information and a list of additional routes.