Peak Mountain 3

Tool Shed, The

Description

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Before there was a gym in Tucson, I used to come out to TV to boulder after work. I'd look up at this cliff and try to picture routes. The first time I went up and looked at it up close, I was spooked by all the big loose blocks. It was scary just to stand under it. When Joe and I worked up the nerve to rap down it, we ended up prying off hundreds of pounds of loose stuff. It is WAY cleaner now.

We also found several fixed pieces and quite a few old bolts on the upper part of the face where the rock is more solid. Apparently there was a "portaledge party" (don't ask) here in the early 80s.

This crag has cleaned up to the point that I can actually recommend it now. Several of the routes are outstanding. If you like climbing 12s, this crag might be right up your alley. All of the full-length routes except for the "bookends" are within a letter grade of 5.12. Don't Tell, Eye of the Tiger, Storming the Castle and No Nudes are excellent.


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