Begins on left side of Orphan looking uphill. Layback the arete to the slightly overhanging face above. Work you way right around the overhang (5.10a+ crux) then straight up into a depression (5.8) and on to the summit (5.10a). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon (2007) Topo Ae pp. 154.

Saturday's Tango

Maniac Minds

Friday's Fandango

Crazy Annie

Bilbo's Great Adventure

Follows the NW corner arete starting just left (looking downhill) and downhill of the upper saddle ridge. Involves several layback moves with a crux move onto the summit.

Climb first 15 feet on low angled slab (5.6) to a short crack. Follow the crack to a ledge just right of a hueco. climb the right side of the hueco following bolt line to a ledge just below the large roof (5.6). Traverse right into into the cave just below the overhanging roof (5.7). Belay the next pitch from inside the cave. Climb out left corner of cave, up and left then straight up (5.10a), or traverse right (5.8) across the face above the roof and up the right corner to the top. Rappel down uphill side from the top. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Topo Ae page 154..

Climbs right side of the Orphan just right of the upper saddle ridge. Top rope from Jacob's Ladder top anchors through a series of huecos. Does not top out.  Refer to Topo Ad pp. 153.

Pitch 1: Begins on downhill side of the Orphan. Lower pitch tends to build up moss and in need of TLC. Climbs up lower slab to right side of large overhanging roof (5.8 with a 5.10a crux move to the roof. Traverse left under and up out the left side of the roof (5.8) to a belay in a small cave. Pitch 2: climb out left side of the cave crossing to the right ridge line above the roof (5.8).  Follow bolt line to the summit (5.8). Refer to Rock Climbing W. Oregon, 2007 Topo Ae pp.154.

Orphan Rock is now in the opening of a large clear-cut. It sits 30 feet below the ridge road and uphill of Inca Rock. There are fantastic views from the rock of the valley below. However does not get climbed much since access has been restricted. The first ascent of Orphan was Jacob's Ladder (A1) made by Harold Hall and Tim Kosderka (Weyerhaeuser Forester) in 1989 and has yet to be freed. Currently there are six established routes on the Orphan range from 5.9 to 5.11b and 35 to 150 feet in length. Bolts are stainless steel and in good shape but the routes themselves predictably are in need of TLC and currently only suitable for dry summer climbing. A full description of the area can be found in Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2, Umpqua, Orton 2007:152-154.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Orphan Rock