This route 70 foot route climbs the severely overhanging West face at the only possible weakness on the wall. It follows a slot/dihedral that starts some 30 feet south of the North West corner of the rock.

The start is best reached by following the trail between the First and Second all the way up and skirting around the North side of the Sunset Flatiron. It is a nice extra credit after completing routes on either of the First or Second Flatirons.

Start at the base of the slot and climb past three cruxes/bulges. Each requoring different technique. The route protect very well. Once you reach the ridge scramble 10 feet North (left) to the summit.

Descent - downclimb East to easier territory and eventually onto the trail.

You can see the Sunset Flatironette on the picture just left of the first. This is a view from the Third.

Pack Rat

South Ridge [better known as Chase the Sun]

Disinclination

Starlink

Eventide

Half-Light

Steppin' Out

Roach lists this climb as a "F5" Flatiron classic. There is some good climbing on this ridge. Your second should be solid due to a few exposed notches that must be downclimbed.

From the approach trail between the 1st and 2nd, follow the a faint climber's trail that leads to the west. The first rock you bump into is Sunset. Follow the trail to the lowest point, passing one false ridge line.

P1. Start 10 feet uphill for the lowest point on the ridge, angle to the left, and gain the ridge line. Follow fun slab climbing past a notch and then a pine tree leaning up against the rock to a belay in the 2nd notch (5.3, ~180 feet).

P2. The crux pitch. Downclimb the notch, and gain a runout groove. Climb up to the right-leaning roof system and place a small TCU. The easiest way over this obstacle is to downclimb from the roof and gain the rib near a large hole. Belay up and to the left on the arete (exciting F5, ~100 feet).

P3. Downclimb into a notch, and find a tunnel through to the east face. Belay at the next good ledge to reduce rope drag (~100 feet).

P4. Run up the tiptoe slab to the false summit (~180 feet).

P5. Tag the summit... (~50 feet).

Descent: downclimb between the two summits, and angle back towards the 1st Flatiron (F3).

Climb the face ~10 feet to the left of the dihedral over some blocky and awkward terrain. Gradually traverse right until you are almost under the dihedral at a sloping ledge. The first crux is here and well protected. It seems to be solvable via a tricky transition into a powerful lieback or an overhanging finger crack. Choose your approach carefully. From here work over several overhanging bulges into the crack. Jam, stem and haul unlikely jugs as the crack gets steeper and wider as you approach the lip. A final couple jams over huge exposure brings the pump factor to the max as you try to hoist yourself onto the ledge at the ridge. The final crux comes just before the top.

If the rock quality was better, I might give this line 4 stars.

Climb up a smooth slab with small hand holds and rounded footholds. This route is found between two trees at the tallest part of the boulder.

Start with your left hand on a great sidepull on the slabby side and your right hand on the arete. Follow the arête up using holds on the arête itself and micro nubbins on the vertical side until you reach an excellent left foot to rock over and another excellent crimp for your left hand, but do try to stay on the arête as long as you can - climbing the lichen-y slab would be a different route altogether and none-too-interesting. The top is dirty, so be dainty not to peel off the steep side when you top out.

Start in a good undercling under the bulge with pasted feet.

Hike in to the Sunset Flatiron and find the Northmost edge of the West side.  From there Hike down the west side, to the South and follow the base of the cliff.  Pass Packrat (5.7) and Disinclination (5.10) and continue down to a standing flake on the wall, some 8-12 feet off of the ground just in front of a slender pine tree which does all but hug the cliff.  Above this you will see a small section of crack and then a open-book dihedal and a set of bulges.

Start at the left side of the flake and heave upa nd right across and over it to a great rest (unprotected 5.8) ther is a thank god hold on the top of the big flake, and a perch to stand in behind it. Reach up and right from the flake once standing on it and place a textbook stopper (#9 ?) and up from there a good gold Camalot (2.5 or 3 inch cam).  Use opposition of the feet and goston with the hands (5.8?) above the good pro to move up and right again to more thank god holds.  Follow an easy open book (5.4-) near hueco's for a while, placing crafty stoppers or some #4 or larger cams in deep solid huecos for pro.  Continue up and right through some unprotected bulges (5.6) to top out.  A crafty small nut can protect the top-out move.

Belay up top, on the shoulder of the rock on a threaded sling in a needle's eye, a few large nuts of tricams and/or a few large cams.  There are pockets up here that hold a lot of water... keep the rope out of it.

To descend, climb to the summit via Chasing The Sun (5.4) and down climb to the East.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sunset Flatironette