A rarely done line that people walk by all the time. Start sitting matched on the obvious incut crimp down and left from the stand start and make powerful moves off of slopey seams to get into the stand start. Although this only adds 5 or 6 moves into the stand start, they are powerful moves that will get you pumped out quickly making the stand start an even bigger challenge. 

  A somewhat overlooked line that I thought was worth posting.

Ethical cleaning Sit

Center Chimney

Near Life

Mayonnaise

Boulder-Rama

Beavers Shoot from the Hip

Flower Power

Drive By

Cough Syrup

All-Time Loser

Sneaker Problem Sit

Comrad

John's Problem

Flower Traverse

Butt Slap

Free Base

Sand Wedge

Monsters And Mermaids

Cauliflower

Outside Corner

Welcome to the Fold

Flower Child

Brother John

Snicker

Cast Away

Inside Corner

Fido

Hidden Agenda

Ethical Cleaning

Ghetto Knowledge

Under The Box

Life Aid

Jinx

Snicker-Doodle

Professor Booty

With Confidence

Tabasco

Black Fly

Josh's Dilemna

Unknown (Ship's Prow)

Mantlepiece

A River Runs Through It

EZ's Problem

Miracle Whip

Obstacle Crack

Italian Stallion

Right Chimney

Left Chimney

Fido Low

The Pit

A Boy And His Dog

Penguins in Bondage

Rusty Mustad

A Girl and Her Cat

Locomotive Breath

Sally Sat Down

Gums (aka Timex)

Seeing Red

Motherf***er

Blue Skied Moon

Sneaker Problem

Beavers Attack From Above

Roadside Chimney

Sally

Bloody Bath Water

A nice change of pace, Roadside Chimney makes for an easy and quick climb on your way to other areas, or a worthwhile stop on it's own if you like chimneys. 

  Scramble up onto the block at the mouth of the chimney and dive right in. Chimney your way into the depths of the boulder and take either a tight, low line under the chockstones, or a wider, more awkward line between them. Work your way back and up until you emerge from the chimney on top of the boulder. Walk off on large fallen log or downclimb.

On the south side of the hill near the stream there is a short cliff band. There are 3 obvious chimneys. This is the center one. Quite fun but a little short. 

  Start off of a plate like rock. Use jams, jugs and chimney technique to worm your way up this boulderable route.

A cool crack running up the center of a sharp arete.  

  Sit Start using the arete and crack and some interesting feet, I used a toe hook. Make crux moves off the ground to a good jug. Then finish more easily up the arete and crack to the top.

One of the best climbs in the area, this right to left traverse of the face will test your finger strength and footwork.  Pull off the ground on the right at the start of Snicker with the two good holds in the crack.  Make a long move out left to a gaston/fingerlock in the crack, grab the crimp just right of the crack with your right hand, then use some small crimps on the face to get the large flake out left.  Finish up the dike on flakes.

The very appealing looking crack underneath a roof of the Summit Boulder. Climb the left leaning crack around the roof, and then continue straight up to the top. Fun but would be more noteworthy if the route was longer.

Sit start on the sloppery bottom of the left-flowing flake. Feet under the roof.

 Big move up/left to the slopers, then an easy, positive top out. Good feet the whole way. 

Slopers, heelhooks, and fun.  This problem traverses the lip of an overhanging boulder with some good movement and tops out with positive holds on an arete.  Sit start the right side of the boulder with a left hand jug above your head and a massive right hand flake/jug.  Pull off the ground, heelhook, then follow the rising lip to the left.  Once you gain the top arete, rock over onto the face and run to the top.

When walking from Round Pond to the Lower Slabs, there are several boulders on your right, this one is short but contains a lot of fun. 

  Sit start lay-backing the obvious wide crack (too wide for fists for me), make one tough move then get good feet and top out on jugs. This climb is much fun and can done a variety of ways, I have even tried inversion on it but that has shut me down so far.

A techy & pumpy traverse topped off with a tricky finish to conquer the boulder. Good beta works wonders. This is the full line linking Mayonnaise into Miracle Whip. Sit start on the right in the crack, crimp your way left to gain the jug in the middle of the face, then follow edges up and left to the sloping topout of Shell n Dough. Roughly 17 hand movements and fun the whole way. 

vimeo.com/80739597

Straight up the face right of Locomotive Breath.  

A fun party trick dyno into the classic V1 "Sneaker Problem". This variation to the problem uses the pedestal far out left due to lack of feet on the actual boulder. Sit start and reach high to a sloping left-hand pinch above the roof of the boulder, and grab a bad right-hand opposing crimp under the roof. Figure out where you want your feet on the block and execute a hard unwind dyno to the jug slot up and right. Core up and squeeze the left-hand and try to avoid dabbing the rock out right. From here match hands and do a v1 deadpoint to the lip before rocking over ta heel or a toe for the topout.

 This is one of the best dynos I have done in the park and is a worthy addition. Initially, I was trying it without the pedestal, but generating momentum is extremely difficult, and it is much more enjoyable to use the jug foot.

This problem starts on the left edge of an overhanging chimney.  Get established below the overhang, with feet on a boulder and good holds to the right of the edge.  Make a lunge to a crimp, heelhook, and make tough slap moves over the bulge, finishing up the easy chimney that splits the slab.     I wondered if the FA had avoided the chimney, but I've convinced myself that it would be highly contrived (and really scary) to force oneself to beeline up the overgrown slab for a direct finish.  Who knows? 

Start standing with hands matched on a good incut flake at head height. Find some feet and deadpoint/dyno to a decent edge/sidepull up and left. From here, figure out a way to get your feet established on the starting hold and then angle left on thin crimps and small feet to the finish.  

  The Kemple guidebook says to jump start, but I was able to do a normal stand start and it felt pretty much the same in difficulty. It also felt like the far more logical start. 

  The rock quality is somewhat questionable on this climb and many of the holds are hollow. This makes the finishing moves even more exciting! Still, this is a fun and worthwhile climb deserving of more traffic.

A fun albiet lowball traverse on the Flower Boulder. Friendly holds and fun moves make for a great pumpy warmup.  

  Sit start the left arete then traverse the lip right until you reach a good hold above the bad landing, grab the lip and top out.

Just down from A river runs through it is this fun V4 

  Start standing with your left hand on a crack/seam up high. Use the small foot jibs on the face and stand up to a sloper. Move up and slap up the slopers on the top arete until you gain the good ledge and then pull the mantle. 

  A lot of fun and a dry landing just as long as the stream isn't flowing too strong.

On the next large boulder right of Tabasco. Without gaining much height, ascend the left diagonal crack until able to break out right via a second crack below the top.

A decent problem with a few fun moves, although not as good as it's neighbor, Gums.  The two problems share the same start.  Sit start in the cave on the juggy shelf (hopefully the birds aren't nesting on it) and pull out left to another large hold.  Pull up and slightly left to a good crimp (crux), then finish up straight up into the bushes. 

This longstanding project was recently sent by Troy Fauteux. See Troy's comments below.Start standing with your left hand on a sloping quartz edge at around 6 feet and your right hand on a small crimp at the same level. Bump the right hand to a reinforced sidepull/undercling crimp and then make a difficult move to an angled edge with the left hand. A few more powerful moves lead to a relatively easy top out. A worthwhile line with some cool beta, hard moves and very easy access. Somewhere in the v10/11 range. Definitely worth checking out if you've done a lot of the other hard climbs in Pway. 

Sit start with two crimps. Find a foot and pull onto the wall and move up to a right-hand crimp. From here dyno to the top of the boulder and take a crazy swing before topping out on jugs.

 The right-hand crimp used for the dyno feels a bit chossy. When it breaks the dyno will have to go from the start holds and will likely be around V8.

Squat start on the arete and make a powerful move (crux) up to a decent hold, then continue up the arete to a slabby scamper to the top.

A great powerful problem that surmounts a bulge from underneath a small roof with a tricky topout.  Sit start under the bulge with a right hand crimp and a left hand seam over the lip.  Using the large right foot, float up to a nice rounded crimp with your right hand, then slap up left hand to a good sidepull.  Work up slopers on the arete until you can stand up and topout. 

  There is no real crux, but every move is fun.

A relatively short power & compression problem with a crux toss up into the slopers of Flower Power.  Sit start the bottomless arete in front of the tree on the left side of the boulder.  Using a right hand sidepull/flake, a left hand pinch low on the arete, and a left heelhook, squeeze up to a triangular hold on the arete with your left hand.  Now for the fun crux.  Dyno right hand up to the slopers on the lip and hold the swing.  Finish up Flower Power. 

youtube.com/watch?v=MIGV_eI…

 

Sit start the short arete on a good blocky hold and make moves onto the sloping lip. Traverse the lip right using slopers and crimps topping out at the apex of the boulder on good holds.

Although this climb is slowly falling apart, the holds may have finally stopped exfoliating and become a solid problem - that is, nothing has fallen off lately.  It climbs a short bulge at the right end of the boulder next to a tree.  Sit start with both hands in the crack, move straight up on crimps.

Start on the Sucker Jug out right of With Confidence and traverse left onto With Confidence and Fido and continue up to the Topout. The rest of the problem is balancy and demands some interesting and subtle changes of weight. Don't blow it or your butt with be hurting sliding down the hill.

Stem up the corner using a mixture of technique and power to a high crux at the top. The top out is made easier if you use a flexing flake up and left, but it feels like a gamble because if it breaks it will result in a awkward fall. If you don't want to take the gamble, reach into the wide crack right of the top out for an awkward top out.

Spaced crimps, pop to jug on lip (don't go out right to sucker jug) continue up on crimps to highballish topout on slopers (remember to breath).   This climb is great, comfortable start with the stopper move right off the starting holds. A great way to break into V5.

Sit start by the dead tree matched on a good jug. Traverse left along the lip until you can offwidth the crack at the end. Eliminate the offwidth for a more difficult top out. I cleaned this up pretty well but it may still be crispy. The landing may be wet certain times of year. 

Make a long reach to a small hold on a severely overhanging arete.  Then work up as high as possible and rock up onto the slab to finish on the slab.  Very fun.

Climbs the left side of the tall face.  Stand start on a diagonal crimp at about head height.  Use small feet and deadpoint up and right to a small crimp, and then up into easier climbing. 

  Usually dry, but rarely climbed.

A sweet little problem with a slew of different ways to go at it. Start on the two jugs, hugging the wall. Terrible feet to start, cross your left hand under to match with your right. Throw a high heel in the little pocket over to the right. Then it gets funky. Either shoot straight for the high right corner or a neat hand heel match and go left to a crimp and bump to the top. Either way, you end up standing on a rail, and have to use the "bunny ear" holds on the top to hoist yourself over. (The wall this corners into "MantlePiece" is obviously off, and if this doesn't get a ton of traffic, you may have to go up and dig the bunny ears out a bit, they have the tendency to get buried by foliage).

A lowball lip traverse that quickly becomes a highball. Good head game comes in handy for this short problem.

 Sit start matched on the lip. Pull on and traverse the lip out left before mantling fifteen feet off the deck. A punt on the topout would not be okay.

Start same as Italian Stallion, but instead of heading up the scoop, break right on the juggy crack. When you reach the arete, follow it to the lip. A good crimp on the face can be used to help with the crux at the top part. Overall, pretty fun, but don't blow it at the top.

Sit start as for Sally Sat down, dyno and grab the jug and move right as if doing Mayonnaise backwards. Grab the crack with the right hand and bring the left in to a sharp crimp. Bump the left hand for the crux cross move and from here reach over right hand to the good hold on Snicker. Finish as for Snicker by moving up to a sharp flake and eventually a good hold. Top out with caution and try to avoid the tree.

Sit start as for Bloody Bath Water with the large rail. Make a committing first move with your right hand up to the broken crimp. From here make hard hand movements traversing right and staying low. Continue traversing right into the jug crimp of Fido. From here finish Fido. A pumpy techy traverse.

Start on the jug of Fido and pull up with one bad foot and balance your way up the high topout.   Great climb to do before you try Fido from the bottom, so you don't freak out toping out Fido

  Don't use the sucker jug out right.   Great Balance moves up good rock, but don't fall or you'll be sliding down the hill, pad and spotters too.

Battle your way up the obvious left facing corner with an over-hanging crack in it (an overhanging layback!)The higher you get the harder the climbing gets.

A thin, technical climb up a beautiful face.  Starting left of the obvious crack, move through some lower angle rock before angling up and left and the final thin headwall before reaching the top 3 feet left of the crack. 

  This may not have been climbed for some time...

Sit Start just below the overhang on holds that are a little crumbly rock and makes moves up the arete and crack to the top. The rock is sharp but the moves are enjoyable.  

  The kicker block below the starting hands is on.

Sit start the sharp arete on good holds on the boulder just to the right of the problem Mantlepiece.  

Sit Start in the corner using the big sloper jug with interesting stemmed feet. Pull up and go to the jugs n the horizontal above your head. Climb over the roofs to the right with move that feel like the Gunks. To an easy top out.

This is a fun problem that ascends a left angling off width crack although doesn't get done a lot due to its proximity to a stream (literally under the start)  

  Start as low as you can in the crack (without getting wet) and layback and foot jam your way up and left. smack the sloper/jug at the end of the crack and mantle using a heel hook around left for the finish. 

I have wondered if there could be a problem here for some time and when I was out filming with Ezra we finally figured it out and man its cool! 

  EZ's Problem Starts just left of Gums(V4) under the big overhanging flake. climb out left making a big cross to a crimp and then unwind to slap the undercling on the flake. finish by mantling up.

This right to left rising traverse is the second half of the problem Cough Syrup and starts on the jug in the middle of the face. Cross to a flat edge in the dike, then reach left to a crimp before dropping onto the knob. Crimping with crap feet will get you to the sloping topout of Shell N Dough, and Man, that rail looked so much better from the ground!

Not once have I ever seen chalk on this wall.  Hopefully that changes when people realize that there are trad climbs over here.  Starting just right of the Black Fly face, climb into the so-called hole in the wall, then choose your exit.  This inventively named route follows the left leaning crack out left and past a chockstone to the summit.

Climbs a highball scoop with a low crux.  Sit start with a sidepull and the jug.  Stand tall to reach a L sloper, heelhook, and grab a gaston just above the sloper.  Work slopers & crimps through the scoop heading left towards the obvious jug.  There is a hidden jug just right of that hold.  Follow a crack/jugline straight up to a high topout. 

  Always dry up to the finishing crack.

On the south side of the hill near the stream there is a short cliff band. There are 3 obvious chimneys. This is the right most one. 

  Climb the chimney past the chockstone or squeeze around it through the lemon-squeeze hole.    Though not a bad way to spend a few minutes this is the least awesome of the chimneys so if you only have time for one... you know what to do.

On the south side of the hill near the stream there is a short cliff band. There are 3 obvious chimneys. This is the left most one the longest one and in my opinion the best one by far. 

  The book gives this route 5.4 which is fine but found it a little harder than that so I called it 5.6... your call. 

  So squeeze in to the chimney and do some funk to get of the ground. Use a great variety of chimney techniques to climb the widening gap to an easy top out.

A sit start to the classic Fido. Not quite as good because of the awkward process of pulling on, but worth doing if you love Fido (like me) but want to change it up a bit. Overall, a fun way to add some drama to an established classic. 

  Sit start with a LH on a sharp pinch directly below the starting hold of Fido and a LH on a good crimp in the faint seam out right. Bump your right hand to the start hold of Fido. Match or cross to the intermediate and pull that awesome deadpoint. Make your way up the face via good crimps to the juggy crack. Follow the crack to the finish and topout.

Stand start on some chossy crimps and do a huge move up left hand to a small ripple crimp. Figure out your body positioning and reach up to better crimps before executing a slopey top out above a pit. Really awesome movement if you can climb double digits. Otherwise, keep walking.

This is a fun route that has crimps, slopers, and a little bit of compression too (and pinches, although you don't need to pinch them). It's a great fun little climb that's right along the short cut from the fire road to the lower slabs.  

  The regular line is a sit start, although you could also do a further sit start which feels about v5 and a stand which feels about v2.  

  Sit start on a good low left hold, and right hand on a good edge. Bump, slap, crimp, and squeeze your way up to the top. There's a good juggy sloper at the top to help with the funky topout. The downclimb is super obvious and you'll be looking straight at it when you top out. Now go do it again!

Jam a left-angling crack to a small roof.  Move out right under the roof and follow the flared crack to a niche.  Finish on a straight-up crack.

I Put this problem up while exploring the hillside area. A short and fun problem off the beaten path from the hillside boulders. Sit start on the down-slope with a square nub and the juggy lip as the starting holds. Bump up to a nice jug above the lip then up to a sloping crimp up high in the corner. Work your way up to the mantel crux and top out to the right. Feet are bad unless you can stick a nice heel hook on the arete.

Stand start the suspended block using the rock out right to establish. Move out to a sharp small crimp, then dyno to the arete and hold a gnarly swing while hoping the right hand doesn't explode. Set the feet then match the arete and ride it out right until you can mantle.

Follows a right leaning crack inside a corner.  The crack is rather large, and is probably best climbed as a layback, although there are face holds or try a jam if you're feeling bored.  Usually dry year round, but the topout may be wet. 

  With a few pads, the route is boulderable.

Technical and powerful. Sit start in the crack with a good right foot and a good left foot. Move up the crack then lunge for the jug, or use some finesse and do it static. 

  A great climb and close to parking area.

This short problem always seems fun, although if you're just breaking into V4 bring an extra pad to protect the possible backflop off the crux.  Sit start in the cave on the juggy shelf (hopefully the birds aren't nesting on it) and pull out left to another large hold.  Fly out left to the hanging arete (crux) and pull over the roof onto the thin slab above.  Once you're standing, you can just run up the slab to top it out.

This problem has suprisingly good movement for something that has been walked by and ignored for so long.  It climbs a thin face and an arete.  Start standing on the right side of the boulder with a two-hand blocky undercling and a large right foot.  With the help of a sloper pinch on the arete and some small crimps out left, work up to a good incut crimp out left, and finally the jug at the peak of the boulder. 

  A sit start has been done at roughly the same difficulty, but is nowhere near as good.

A fun, tricky, power problem that starts on the nose of a boulder and follows rounded crimps and slopey holds up an arete to the topout.  Sit start to the right of Welcome to the Fold at the right end of the roof with your right hand on a good crimp and your left on a faint seam.  Using the good feet, float up to the rounded crimp up left, drop into the slopey arete with your right hand, then make a big move (crux) to the good sidepull out left.  Move up the slopey arete and figure out how to top out.

Sit start with some hard body tension and some slopers that are barely usable on an aesthetic arete. Figure out your feet and what holds are actually possible to hold and make your way up the curved crescent arete, until you reach decent holds and can stand on the slab. There may be a few ways of doing the problem, difficulty may vary between v7 and v10.

A fun little problem with or without shoes.  Stand start on a good jug.  Either use the boulder on the right for feet, or campus up and left to another decent hold.  Bring a left foot up and pop for the lip, then mantle.   

  Can also be done as a campus problem, or a lip traverse L to R.

Sit Start in a good flake and make fun moves up and right on positive crimps to an easy top out. A couple fun moves, but there are much better routes in the park.

A quick little warm-up on good holds and a good beginner problem.  This problem climbs straight up the dike in the middle of the boulder starting with a huge jug at about head height.  Pull on, then follow flakes straight up. 

  A sit start is possible at a much stiffer grade.

Start sitting with both hands on a choice of edges on the obvious rail feature. Make a big deadpoint up and right to a crimp. Then use a unique shallow pocket and a few other holds to gain the lip of the boulder and a relatively easy finish.  

  A cool mix of power and technique with great movement.  

  This climb had apparently broken and been deemed unclimbable. Then it broke again and became climbable again. I never tried it previous to its current condition so I can't really comment too much on the history. However, in its current state, I found this to be an excellent climb and personally it's my favorite line on the wall. Originally graded v7. Felt somewhere in the v7/8 range to me.

Rarely if ever crowded, there is a fine collection of problems/routes here that for the most part don't get any attention as people walk by from Round Pond to Boulder Natural.  As with the rest of the park, these boulders/crags are granite, and most of them are in the shade, with the exception of Lakeside Crag, which can be fully climbable in the middle of winter.  There are a variety of highball boulder problems as well as lowballs, and a scattering of toprope/trad climbs on the cliffs ranging from easy 5.3 chimney/crack climbs to hard 5.13 face climbs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hillside (aka Summit Boulder Area)