Begin thirty feet right of the classic "Touch and Go" in a left facing / overhanging book. Powerful fingertips liebacking leads to a bolt. Above the bolt the crack widens to hand size in the back of a pod. Continue to the top in the hand crack above the pod. Sustained climbing down low! 2 out of 5 stars

The Gold Hunk

Thrash or Crash

Credibility Gap

When Lightning Strikes

Cornerstone, The

Kills Per Minute

The Gilded Lump

Touch and Go

One of the best 5.9 cracks in Joshua Tree. Start out in sustained double finger cracks until the right crack peters out. Continue up left crack as it turns to perfect hands and finishes with a small juggy roof.

Belay from a large boulder (gear required) atop the formation.

To descend:  scramble west through a notch, downclimb into a rock gully and then scramble down the gully (heading east towards Echo Rock) until it opens up and you can make a left back towards your pack.

This wide crack in a left-facing dihedral is about 70 feet to the right of Touch And Go.  Hand and fist jamming take you up to where the crack goes offwidth.  Jam or lieback past here up to a chimney.  Enter the chimney (crux).  At the top of the chimney, a stomach traverse leads 15 feet right to an easy exit.

This thin crack and steep face climb is a short distance to the right of Touch And Go.  The bolt and fixed pin should identify the route.  Hand traverse up and left to reach the base of the thin crack.  You can rap down from a two bolt anchor on a ledge near the top.

Up the face to first bolt, then traverse right to the 2nd bolt, and follow more bolts around arete and up.  Listed as 5.11b/c in Bartlett's

Rock Climbs of Central Joshua Tree.

Looks like a bolted topside anchor had been chopped.  Natural and gear anchor to 1" with long extension.

This is the next route left of Touch and Go. A thin crack leads up to a large, sloping ledge. Clip a bolt and pull sloper face moves above the ledge. Holds get better and the moves easier leading up as it is increasingly runout. Small cams at the top protect the exit moves. It seems like the second bolt was chopped at some point and is no longer around.

Obvious crack system on a separate part of the wall just right of the big rock gully.  Fun moves, but some loose bits to negotiate past.  Listed as 5.8/9 in Bartlett's

Rock Climbs of Central Joshua Tree

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The crux is getting established in some very thin fingers and pinches, after stepping onto the route from the boulder in front of it.  Easier climbing up the thin crack, with some cool transition moves about halfway up.  Then thru very mellow huecos to a small ledge, and short section of fist crack.

Listed in the Vogel guide at 11a.

Description

Protection

Routes in Touch and Go Face