Lims Cramp Chimney

Maria's Crack

Sunnyside

Across The Universe

Flakes to Fresno

Dig It

Hardly Worth the Trouble

Caveman Television

There and Back Again (aka Liberace)

The Wave

Eaks it Out

Dig A Pony

Arriba Su Vientre

Vances Vertical Vent

A fine line up the sunny side of the Eastern Summit Block.  Start just right of Flakes to Fresno, finding the path of least resistance around an awkward block.  Traverse up and left past 2 bolts on reasonably solid rock.  Crank through the small, but tricky roof (11a crux), passing a 3rd bolt.  Easier face climbing up a vertical seam and 3 more bolts to the top.

Climb the crack left of Dig a Pony that angles right. Awkward boulder mounting to a steep hand crack, with a balancy finish out right. Lots of loose rocks inside of the crack and ontop of the ledge. Belayers be warned.

Steep, thin start leads to a fun mantle onto a big ledge. The lower portion feels a bit like Shadow. This makes a nice connecting route to the summit after climbing Garden Party, Dark Side or any of the P-Wall routes. Can easily be set up as a top rope if you don't want to lead it.

I would call this a "soft 5.9". The only 5.9 move is in the first 10' off the ground. The rest is 5.8 or easier. This would be a good climb for a 5.8 leader wanting to break into 5.9.

After climbing in the shadows of the far right side of P-Wall, a transition to Sunnyside provides a nice sunny route with great views.

The poison oak at the base is not as bad as rumored.

This route is the obvious left diagonal crack in the middle block. A good day of climbing would be to ascend P-Wall via P-Crack or Route Canal and then finish the day on Flakes. This is a straightforward lead and the only difficulty is deciding whether you want to use the face or just get your right side completely in the crack.

Big moves requiring a few long reaches to jugs marking the crux moves down low. a bolt above your head for every crux. after bolt 3 it gets gradually easier on 5.10 ground, stay right of the chimney for the  hard man test.

"Actually worth the trouble. Starts on the ledge above and behind Handjob. Climb the crack in the [right facing]corner. FA Rusty Garing and frineds, 1970. FFA Dwight Kroll and Bob Fuller, January 1978." that's what's written in the Slater guide. Fun lil high-step-mantle move to get to the ledge where the crack begins.

pro: three bolts plus pro med nuts/ .5-2" cams. fifteen feet to the right of sunnyside, move up the ramp and over to clip the first bolt. then climb up! finish at the sunnyside anchors.

"Clip bolt 1 and either start in the inside corner or start left and work your way

up the arête. Leads to a 2 bolt anchor on top. Still a bit loose. A fun way to reach the

summit after climbing Sunnyside.” - John Knight's eGuide 2010

From the anchors a short, second class scramble will bring you to the hiker's summit.

Start about 10' right of Dig It (the corner) and make a high step up and reach a good hold. Takes an awkward mantle move then things get easier. The original route went right after stepping up until you were on the side facing Foothill. A variation goes straight up after the mantle move to the (new?) set of anchors (climbers right) below the Dig It anchors. The direct variation is loose. Or at least it was last time I was there. If a few more people climb it (the variation), it might make a fun lead.

An awkward full-value-over-hanging-off-width. A real fist fight. Takes a #2 BD cam to protect the crux. Requires an alert belayer, deck potential. Long slings and gear to build TR anchors.

This route is in memory of Eric Eaks.

Good, well-protected route to the left of Flakes to Fresno that can be top roped from the same chains if you're not up to leading. The first crux involves a couple of solid pinches and small edges for your feet. The final crux is a thin face above the ledge which can be avoided by scrambling around left.

cool chimney to an overhanging fist crack exit, you feel like a hero exiting.

obvious overhanging upside down V cave above sunny side that can be seen from hikers trail. starts out chimney to a few stems then the fist roof. a little dirty and loose but didnt think it was scary loose.

More of a squeeze chimney than an offwidth. Getting off the ground and into the "vent" is the crux.

Description

Protection

Routes in Summit Blocks - East (Main)