Okay climbing with a bit of funky rock in the middle and a stout bouldery crux.  It wanders right almost to the climb to it's right then back left to an undercling. Then it moves right to a cool ribbon of rock and the anchors

Gibbon Ribbon

Unknown

Float Like a Butterfly

Sting Like A Bee

Nutterfly

City Girls

Mariposa Primero

Evac Order

speed hump

Swallowtail

Messalaneous Fun

Monarch

Tricky hard to read route that gets harder the higher you go. Undercling left then back right. A face full of crystals make it hard read for a bit then you just have to hand on.

Good route that might deserve another star but the rock down low had me committed to not falling off as the bolts seemed to be in dubious rock. After surmounting flake leaning against cliff work right possibly sharing a hold or two with Sting then move left and up hanging dihedral.

A 5.10 start leads to the 2nd half of the route which is about a dozen or so 5.11+ moves in a row.  May be one of those rare routes that is easier for smaller folks.  Unlike say -- most of the routes at the TriTower. 

  I'm only giving it 2 stars, but it's a strong 2 stars. 

  The route was harder until EFR bugged me about cleaning it up.  After cleaning, a much easier crux beta was discovered.

Scramble up without pro angling right to the orange face right of a ragged crack. Good holds around to the right can't be seen and it is a good deal harder if you climb straight up the shallow corner. Thoughtful finish. Top-roped and cleaned before the solo FA.

Climbs face left of chimney and finishes up steep black streak.

Scramble up easy rock just left of leaning flake. Tan hanger on a bulge left of some grungy broken but safe rock. climb jugs to a moderately effective rest then hit the headwall. Don't be drawn left as it will lead you away from the route which works straight up face then joins Mary's finish to the right.

Hard start tight of dirty crack leads to easier climbing above.

fun short route runs through black water streak on right side of the steep face. Crux comes getting to the anchor.

Scramble up to Hedgehog rimmed ledge and work up chimney to the third bolt then pull on to the arete to the right and follow it to the anchors up and left at the top.

Scramble up easy rock past a couple of bolts to the left side of the buttress with a seam.

Steep laybacking starting off a ledge will keep your belayer vigilant as a mistake clipping the second bolt will land you on or just above the ledge. The rest is more sustained than you would guess.

This easy-access crag turned out to be surprisingly good.  Every climber who has hiked the Butterfly Trail has seen it and wondered... hmmm... what is that like ?  Dennis Cozetti and crew put up a couple of routes.  And Joe Shiefman and Joe Kreidel looked at it and passed on it.  I looked at it and figured I'd come back after doing the TriTower.  Then Eric Rhicard and I came back and thought "yeah".  And then Eric went nuts putting up new stuff ! 

  The rock is kind of weird.  Lots of loose stuff and hard to predict what will break.  Some of it is like very dense mud... TriTower has that too.  But it makes for cool hold geometry. 

  Afternoons are shady.  As the sun moves south for the winter the shade should arrive earlier and earlier.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mariposita