Another good low-angle line on good rock. If you are sick of pulling on pockets and want to edge a little, and have already climbed out the Emerald City area, try this climb and its neighbors. Work your way up the right side of the blunt, low-angle arete to the top, below the huge roof of the "trash compactor" rockhouse to a bolted anchor shared with Sundance. (The next bolted line to the right).

Ju Ju

The Arrowhead

Hotdog out of a Hallway

Exhibit B

High Noon

Blood Money

Your Mom

Straight Edge

Broken Arrow

Central Scrutinizer

Reserved Seating

Roaming the Halls

Zambezi Plunge

Can o’ Peaches

Sundance

Exhibit A

Beachcomber

Physical Attraction

Scabies

Welcome to ol' Kentuck

Move Your Bag

Sunburn

The Seam

Small Change

Environmental Impact

Big Money

Brontosaurus

Razorback

Climb up a jamcrack in a small corner formed by a strange inset tower for 10 meters to reach a ledge (5.8) and then up a wide crack and a right-facing corner for 6 meters more to reach the bolted anchor for JuJu.

The route climbs the west face of the pinnacle. Begin at the low roof, boulder up to get situated on the face and then either climb straight up the left arete to a ledge or traverse right to a groove and up. The arete is a little harder, but climbing to the groove puts you in danger of a groundfall.

After gaining the ledge, follow the narrow face protecting out of horizontals to anchors on the summit. Rappel, do not lower.

Climb the side of the pillar on your right, just before entering the hallway where Roaming the Halls begins. Start next to a small tree, avoid using the tree to make it a little harder. Utilize horizontals for pro and  finish by topping out the pillar and belaying/descending from the anchors for the Hallway.

Would be a fun route moderate with a little scrubbing so bring a brush.

This is a lovely grovel of a chimney but would be a very serious lead. I recommend top roping it after leading Reserved Seating unless you are prepared to basically solo it. Perhaps some of the new super wide cams could help.

Anyway, there is a crux 20 ft up and another near the top. Squirm and worm your way up and enjoy yourself!

A good route with a high crux above gear. Climb up and right on this line past small holds, culminating on a pumpy sequence up high. Hit the ledge and catch your breath...

Descend from a bolted anchor on the ledge.

This route climbs up orange rock through a couple of roofs with a hard move near the first bolt.

A 5.fun climb on a notable feature at Pebble Beach. Be aware that the route is covered in lichen and moss on the lower slab section (bring a brush) as of April 2018, however once vertical there are large hand holds and placements for protection.

While the first placement for protection is relatively far off the ground, the remainder of the route has several gear options.

Shares an anchor with Roaming the Halls which seem to be newish glue ins, rap from rings,  as of Apr 2018.  This route could be used as a way to set a TR for "Roaming the Halls."

Be careful not to drop gear on the busy "hallway" below.

This route will not be dry in the rain.

A great route on small holds- if you are short, there are still plenty of holds, but they get even smaller...  Climb up the good face past sustained crimping just left of a huge pillar with an OW behind it and continue to a 2-bolt anchor placed just where the holds start getting big.

Start by climbing the chimney formed between the main wall and the pinnacle that The Arrowhead is on. I'm not sure if the route is supposed to end at the ledge, continue straight up between the two arêtes, or go inside the chimney from the ledge. If going between the two arêtes, protection looks impossible. If going up through the chimney, be prepared to belay from the top. Protection in the chimney is scarce but it is easy climbing.

Rappel off of a tree. The tree on the right side (when facing the wall) will be a cleaner rappel.

This route takes a line up the center of the "Trash Compactor" at Pebble Beach. Boulder up to a hard to see pin. Traverse right to an undersized bolt, pull the crux and plug a couple TCUs and lots of small/medium nuts to new anchors. Fantastic route!

A great route with a great rest straddling the arete that earned this unique route its name.

Climb up good rock and good holds until you are just starting to feel a pump, then take a seat and shake out. Consider it a good thing that it is reserved, there is only room for one here... then once shook out, finish past a few more bolts to the anchor.  A pretty good lead for beginning leaders.

Just right of Versatile Universe is a big detatched pillar leaning against the main wall, which you must walk under to get to the rest of the routes. While between the wall and pillar in the "hallway", climb the handcrack in the main wall, rap from rings.

Start on a wide triangular pod and climb the finger and tips crack. Use underclings in the small roof then do fun easy moves on conglomerate holds, flat edges and crimps to a dead point. Hit the ledge, finishing on the chains of Scabies.

Start up a few moves in the Offwidth and traverse right on good holds to below the initial bolt, then climb up on thin holds on a low angle face along a line of bolts. THis is generally a body-length right of the offwidth crack.  Where the crack ends, trend left up above it to the bolted anchor, which is shared with JuJu, the arete to the left.

This offwidth offers a great lieback the entire way up with a nice ledge to rest on in the middle. Large cams are a must. Use a #4 cam near the start, a #2 or #3 in a narrow point after that, and then 3 or more #6 cams for the remainder of the route. Lieback most of the route.

Near the top, chimneying the offwidth is technically possible but very narrow (less than the length of a helmet). Lieback is recommended, but the only protection will be from a #6 until you reach a horizontal crack on the right side of the offwidth that will readily take a .4 X4 cam.

Climb a short wide crack to a ledge. Belay from gear or shrubs. Walk into the chimney and begin climbing when the dirt gets steep. Halfway up the chimney commit completely to rock and exit into the sun (hopefully). Belay at the top from vegetation. Walk east (away from the end of the ridge) to a short rappel to get down.

While this route is somewhat unpopular, it is a great, easy multipitch to get someone's feet wet.

The crux on this climb probably depends on your offwidth skills.  Climb the initial corner via a wide #5 Camalot sized crack for 20 ft.  Double hand stacks here with some features on the face.  Next, some chimney moves to reach the base of an overhanging hand/fist crack (crux).  Follow the crack to the top of the cliff.

Climb the bolted flake between two moderate cracks for 40' to shuts at the top.  A nice change of pace from most sport climbs at The Red.

This is the super obvious overhanging finger crack just right of Brontosaurus. Climb up the easy gully on the left then hit the crack. A couple flared handjams lead to good fingers lead to bad fingers lead to good fingers again. All at a very steep angle.

An obvious line that has somehow escaped documentation despite being commonly climbed. I am adding this to the database for informative purposes.  After an early trad ascent in 1991, Casey Rhodes and I referred to this as "Sunburn" (a variation of Sundance).

Climb into the OW and continue to the top, placing large cams. At the top of the crack continue directly up to the shared anchors of Sundance and JuJu.  I believe the difficulty to be ~ 5.9-.

This route follows the thin seam below the much more striking Welcome to Old Kentuck.

A serious lead but you can climb around to set up a top rope.

I found the movement to be interesting and fun using a bit of face climbing and crack skills.

The biggest draw to this one is that it stays bone dry in the rain.

Short nice little flake. Need to build anchor at top.  Can used instead of the gully to get to Big Money

A nice, easy handcrack in a left-facing dihedral with great jams and pro.  Most people skip the second pitch and rap from bolts at top of first pitch ~50' up.

Cool roof move! Climb up the dihedral, tackle the roof then continue up past another roof to the top.

A wonderful left-leaning crack with mostly perfect jams & pro and a crux up high.  Scramble up and left to the corner (directly beneath the overhangining finger crack of Welcome To Ole' Kentuck, 5.13a) and climb the left-leaning handcrack to the large ledge with a bolted anchor out right.

This is an overlooked, but decent route. It actually makes a nice, safe beginner trad lead. The climbing is pretty straightforward, the rock is good and protection is more than adequate. There is also a wide and short second pitch above.

Climb the flake to a good sized tree on a ledge. Rappel form the tree or continue to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pebble Beach