Awesome line in Scary Canyon established by Tedd Thompson and Pokey Amory. The lower half presents typical Black Cliffs tricky climbing on polished basalt and the technical crux of the route with slightly sporty bolt spacing (a stick is clip useful for the start). Milk an okay rest below the headwall and enjoy the spectacular finish on positive steep edges and pockets. This is one of the better sport routes in the canyon.

Men Who Pause

Simple Physics

Beefcurtain

Chronic Load

Full Bred

Boise Gunfighter

Doctor Hemlock

Public Service

Allison Wonderland

Onion Boy

Tech and sustained climb that requires imagination (as the Boise Climb guide states.)

Fairly sustained climbing. Be careful clipping second clip.

The start is hard, then pulling the roof (kneelock) and the moves after are sustained 5.11.

Climb the crack past 4 bolts then merge with Simple Physics.

Like its neighboring climbs, the crux is in the first few bolts, with thin, technical climbing on smooth basalt. Bring your A-game for the start (or a stick-clip) then be rewarded with a fun 5.9 crack and dihedral that cruises to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Scary Canyon