Sleeping with Giants is on a sub formation to the right of the White Fang.  Jack and I hiked all the way up intending to put up a new route on the Fang and ended up being intimidated out of the true south face and turned out attention to this smaller feature just to the right of the Fang.

The Molar may be a better name for it.

Three pitches:

P1: 5.6 approach pitch.  Puts you at the bottom of the tight corner that finishes in an overhanging, flaring tight hands crack. Great stance to belay from at the top of pitch one.

P2:  5.11+ C1.  Follow the corner up until the climb keep steepening, eventually the going gets tough and either super man pull your way up on flaring tight hands through what may go at 5.12 and catch the first knuckle bad finger lock with your left hand or do what I did and stand up on a nut until it allows you to gain enough purchase with your left hand to beached whale your way up to a great belay ledge.

P3: 5.7ish.  Clamber left between rock and tree and then turn right up and between the rocks (caving) until you reach sandy flat spot, you can unrope here and keep going up the ridge or drop off to the east and descend down our rap anchors.

Descent:

At the top of whereever you want to stop climbing (or the top of pitch 3), rap to the east and scramble down the ridge making a few 35 m raps that end in a scramble down to the bottom of the condor buttress.  When in doubt, keep heading to skiers right back to the west.  There are lots of trees to rap off of

Sleeping with Giants

Dandroof

This is a steep climb that goes directly up the south face of the White Fang.

It's four pitches long and has a very succinct description in the guidebook: "this steep climb on impeccable white stone is climaxed by an airy hand crack through a roof on the last pitch"

Looks like a cool line!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in White Fang