A good climb with a fierce little crux.

After a few opening moves the crux arrives all too soon; from a good small wire placement, execute very iffy lie-away moves to gain a slot, small cam. From here good holds lead to a welcome rest and re-group. Small wires help with the confidence on a tricky high-step sequence that comes next. The crack now relents (large cam), so take a deep breath and enjoy.

Right Mel Crack

Other Voices

The Power of Now

Mutterers

Rock & Roll Girl

Roman Pretzel

I Love Brian Piccolo

Background Noise

Earworm

Murmur Has It

Whispers

Hurly Burly

Mumbles

Piranha

Fusion Punk

Left Mel Crack

Modern Jazz

Pell Mel

Kickin' Bach

Mel's Mantles

Bleu Plate Especial

The Fifth Dimension

Overheard

Walk to the left around from the Mel Cracks and boulder hop to the bottom of the upper left tier. The climb is on the right-hand side, a flakey looking crack in a vertical seam that ends before the top, with another crack located up and to the right.

Steepness on spikes (small cam early please) with the odd jam leads to the end of the first crack and a good rest. Traverse right and climb the well featured crack to the mother of all jugs.

Walk to the right around from the Mel Cracks, this climb is the last significant crack system before the crag peters out.

A steep route.

Ledges lead to the meat of the climb, a steep fingers to hand crack (small cam) which is followed to a nice hand-rail below the final bulge (comforting medium cam). Stepping left to good holds seems like the right thing to do, then head up from here. Sling a boulder for the belay.

Small cams in the patina and a tricky traverse left gets you to the first bolt. Pull the small roof on a nut placement ,clip another bolt and your at the crux. Big reach and a funky hold gets you to the anchors.

Start about 10 feet right of

Other Voices

and

Murmurs

at a left slanting finger crack under a ceiling (V1).

Finger traverse up and left in the crack to a ledge (5.8). Climb the obvious, grainy, parallel cracks above the ledge to the top (5.8).

Variation 1: Climb the left facing flake/corner that is just right of

Murmurs

and about eight left of the regular start of this climb. This start is 5.5 or 5.6.

This is a short, mediocre climb with hand jamming and recessed fist jams.

a fun mix of stems, jams, and overhanging face moves in a steep dihedral

Located on an upper tier buttress to the right of boulder piles. A flaky looking crack that leads to a notch. It can be combined with "Other Voices".

Boulder-hop across from the top of "Other Voices" to find another steep one. Start up a thin crack (cams) to the right of a large thick undercling flake, this leads to a traverse left to the bottom of the main crack. The crack leans leftwards, a big sharp handrail (medium cam in crack) allows you to gain the crack, and good holds and exposed climbing leads to a rest on a large flake on the right. Step left from here and into the crux (small/medium cam) strenuous moves lead to a tricky finish.

Scramble off to the right.

Start to the right of

Mutterers

at the next crack.

Climb the crack to a ledge, then climb the short face above to the top.

Begin about 20 feet left of

Overheard

at the base of a steep, slightly left leaning crack. This is just to the right of some blocks that form a small corridor at the base of the cliff.

Climb the crack system past a wide spot to an anchor.

Start just right of

Other Voices

below a face that leads to an arching flake/ceiling.

Climb up the face to the flake. Go up and left on the flake a bit, then face climb up to the top.

Begin about six feet left of

Mumbles

at a grainy crack/ right facing corner. This crack is near the uphill (left) end of the pillar that sits in front of the main face.

Climb the grainy crack/corner to the top.

Steep best describes Hurly Burly. Climbs like a sport route but takes gear.

Start about 30 feet up and left of

Overheard

at the right edge of a pillar that sits in front of the main face.

Climb the grainy crack on the main face that is at the right (downhill) edge of the pillar.

Fire past four bolts on steep rock up to a crack. Place gear and do some very pumpy moves to the jug. More gear leads to the top.

Tough start up a steep ringlock-sized straight-in crack along the right side of an "X" marked downward pointing block.  Heed that warning.  The block might feel solid when first reaching up to touch its bottom pointy end, but the entire massive block flexes if pulled at when level with the "X" mark. Above all that, work up the same crack system to the top.

This is the righthand crack.

A fun climb full of very cool moves.

Good little slots lead to the first impasse; a rather ominous bulge. Good technique pays dividends here and soon the next impasse is reached. Cool high step moves will pull you through this to the last impasse, a thought-provoking but not difficult mantle.

Pull over the top to a medium cam anchor.

This is a fairly nice thin crack and steep face.  The crux start is hard to protect

Thin edges to gain a lieback off a big block.  From there, more thin edges to another juggy lieback.  Another bit of spice before rounding out to slabbier climbing, but still interesting.

Many mantles, pretty steep with good edging.

A great alternative after you've burned your forearms with Mel's left and right laps.

Mels Diner is an awesome spot to close the day. Easy access and great landing area.

Climb up a short, right leaning crack then pull past a bulge to a ledge. Climb the steeper, sculptured face above to the top.

Hard to reach gear in a thin crack is needed to pull the off the ground crux. Above that a little more gear gets you established under the overhang. Clip two bolts and mixed cams on overhanging rock before the pump sets in. Traverse left at the top and exit same as Power Of Now. Shares anchors with Power Of Now.

Go up and left on a series of blocks. When the blocks end, make a tricky move up and left onto a ledge. Continue up and left (V1) on a flake, until you can reach right to a bolt. Clip the bolt and make steep moves up a short crack to the top.

Variation 1: Starting either on

Other Voices

or this route, climb the steep huecos just left of the upper portion of the

Other Voices

crack.

Description

Protection

Routes in Mel's Diner