A great route if it had been taller. As it is, it offers good rock, crazy moves, a sequential crux, and an excuse to go explore a rarely visited flatiron.

This route gains its name from the story behind the FA- whereas it was red-pointed on the 5th cumulative attempt, after the 2 ascensionists had taken turns attempting the FA while cleaning flakes and lichen on lead, and certainly doing lots of it.

Climb up the good handcrack which widens and make a surprisingly awkward transition left to under a large overhang. Grab up into the overhanging offwidth and find good grips on the upper chockstone, then work up on underclings and slaps to over the roof. Try to keep breathing through this body-tension workout, then at the lip, execute the devious crux. Pull over the top and belay from good gear at a good stance.

To descend, downclimb past trees through a chimney and crack system to the West/NorthWest.

Under Siege

White Stallion

Good movement on mostly good stone- Since it was cleaned ground-up on-sight on FA, there is still some loose rock or lichen present, but not bad.

Start up directly in the crack, (5.9, as on the FA) or by working uphill on a boulder to the right of its base (tried later, far easier) and gain the crack system leading up to a bulge. Set good gear and tackle the bulge, pulling up and left into a corner with very thin gear (small RPs) and then up and over onto the slab to reach the top.

Belay off of a good horn with a cordalette, or go West on the summit to gear placements.

To descend, downclimb past trees through a chimney and crack system to the West/NorthWest.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cubicle Crag