The big corner to the left of the bolted line, "Shop and Compare." Two pitches, chain anchors (final set of anchors is the same for that of "Shop and "Compare").

Red Corner

No Competition

Shop and Compare

Companeros

La Vida

Straight outta Compton

Women's Semi-Qualifier

Splitter

Question of Balance

An excellent romp starting from the bolted belay at the top of pitch 1 of

Red Corner

.  Climbs through bolts and gear up excellent patina  to a sequential crux getting into a scoop at about 60 feet, then steep jugs to the top.  Has sustained, interesting movement up perfect rock -- classic!

A fun outing with bolts at the cruxes.  Balancey crimp moves to a glorious patina upper half.  A few underclings down low for variety!

This is a great journey through steep patina plates, cracks, and edges.

P1: Follow the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack. Use a finger/hand crack (gear) to reach the first bolt. Angle back right to reach the steep juggy face above.

P2: Continue up the wall with more steep climbing to belay on a good ledge. A small wire could be placed after the last bolt, but it is easier here.

P3: Angle left to hit the arete for the final bolted pitch.

I highly recommend linking P1 and P2 with a 70M rope. A 60M rope would also probably work.  You will need to back clean a couple clips and use long runners on a few key bolts to reduce drag, though.

An excellent mixed multi pitch on the south face of the comp wall.

P1 Ascend a right leaning thin hands to finger crack stepping right (crux dynamic 5.9++) and proceeding up the easy terrain until a 3-4 inch crack is reached.  Big cams are not needed as there are bolts to the right of the crack for pro. We skipped the first belay and linked to P2 with some rope drag.

P2 steep juggy patina mostly 5.7 with a move or two of 5.9

P3 Traverse climbers right from the belay seeing the bolts on the wall. A cam protects the airy unique "step across" move.  Steep climbing that improbably stays at the grade to more moderate patina above.  Top out on the formation!

Rappel the route in 3 60 M rappels. WE used a 70 but a 60 would work.

Climb up a ramp to gain a finger crack.  Climb the crack through a few difficult bulges until the crack seams out.  Venture upward into the featured face. There is gear, but it requires some creativity. Original route climbed to the top meeting up with Splitter's second anchor

Great sport climb from the comp, follow bolts left of a thin crack. Stepping off the block to the right is way easier than straight up the guts.

This is one of prettiest 5.11 crack lines at the City and Castle Rocks.  The rating has been documented as 5.11a, but the moves at the overhang are stiff and a little bit heady for the grade.

P1: Follow a shallow RF dihedral to the small overhang. The best crux gear consists of medium hexs, since the crack flares in the back.  Fire the crux sequence with poor feet and hit a jug above the the overhang. There is a short section of poor rock at this point. Also, watch your gear placements at the lip, the rope my force you gear into the crack.  Then enjoy 60ft of splitter crack around the #2 friend size to a 2 bolt anchor.

P2: Pitch 2 traverses to the right into a large hands fist crack crack to another 2 bolt anchor.

Rap with one 60M rope.

Excellent route on the South face of Comp Wall with (as eloquently described in the Bingham guide) an awesome, exposed face to the top of the wall. The route does not actually top out, although it may be possible to bypass the chains and continue on to the top; we didn’t attempt that.

P1.  Start with P1of La Vida on gear and then, when bolts appear, take the left bolt line which breaks off at about the fourth bolt on La Vida.  Cruise a few more bolts to a set of bolts with chains.  See La Vida for the complexities on this pitch.

P2.  5.10a Slab, thin and steep in spots.  Follow bolts to a big ledge with a set of bolts with chains on the left wall above the ledge.

P3.  5.10c Thin start onto a balancy mantel leads to an intimidating-looking bulge that is great fun.  A crux may be the last move to the chains...I have to put an asterisk on my send as I french freed on a chain.

There is a variation on P3 called La Vida Loca that takes a line of bolts left after the mantel. We didn’t do it and the book rates it at 5.11a.

Rappel the route with a 70m rope. It looks like a 60m would work fine.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Comp Wall