Devious climbing with hard-to-place gear on a right-leaning arch. A good route with good gear...if you can hang in to place it.  

  Climb the corner just right of Ventre de Boeuf: trend right to the arch, and climb the arch to a small overhang (crux) to a slab. Reach the anchor and rap.  

  A note from Ivan Rezucha:  I did what I thought was the FA on aid in the mid '70s. Dick Williams says it was done earlier by Dennis Mehmet & co., but I'm a little skeptical, as there were no pin scars. But perhaps in the hard Gunks rock, one aid ascent wouldn't leave any scars. 

  My "FA" was done as a self-belay, on all nuts, with hooks. At one point I did 3 hook moves in a row, with 2 hooks, by hanging on some small free holds as I moved a hook up. That was pretty exciting. I was either self-belaying with prussiks, or maybe I had moved up by then to jumars. 

  My name for the climb, "The Man Who Fell to Earth", came from this story: Jeff Pofit attempted (what we thought was) the second ascent. He didn't know that I had used hooks. He ripped his gear from the crux aid section, where the arch jogs right, and zippered a bunch of other gear due to the sideways pull caused by arching. He landed on his head at a soft spot between some rocks. I think he was carried away, but he would have been able to walk away. 

  The original route went right at the top of the arch to a platform on the arete, and then angled left and up on some nice free climbing at about 5.8. My understanding is that Hugh Herr & co. free-climbed the final traverse right to the arete, but that most people end the free climbing by exiting left near the top of the arch. 

Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth

Lady's Lament-Boldville

Ventre de Boeuf

The Spring (P1)

Dissonance

Bold-Ville

Wasp Stop

Tiers of Fear

Prick, The

Lito and the Swan

The Yellow Wall

Boldina

Filipina

Mona

Oblique Twique

Full Face (pitch 2 only)

Double Crack

Scary Area

Vader

High Jinx

Shit Creek

Lost in Yellow

Ivan and the Saum

No Man's Land

Blistered Toe

Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too

Airy Aria

Lisa

The Summer

The Fall

The Winter

Los Tres Cabrones

Broken Hammer

Wrath of the Lamb

Tweak or Freak

Carbs and Caffeine

Torture Garden

Unslung Heroes (Pitch 1)

The Sting

The Nose

This route is not particularly well-liked among my friends. After climbing it at my suggestion, one of them said he would rather go bouldering than be subjected to it again. Strong words! And he is not alone - you can find similar comments posted on message boards by other nattering nabobs of negativity.

 But don't let all the bad press dissuade you. Ventre de Boeuf has a lot going for it -- it's unique at the Gunks, it's got a lot of varied climbing packed into a single pitch, a very unusual and thoughtful (and physical!) crux, and there's never a line. (And I mean never.)

 Not only that, it has names like McCarthy and Stannard associated with it. If it was good enough for them ...

 Start: Around the corner from Double Crack (down and to the left) you will see an off-width crack, which widens into a cave about 40'-50' up. The start is a few feet to the right of that crack. (If you want a direct start at 10d, climb the offwidth crack. If you don't, there is no off-width technique required on the rest of the route.)

 Face climb up about 20' to a small overhang, and then make a somewhat committing traverse up and left into the wide crack. A large cam (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) is helpful when you reach the crack. By this point you will have experienced the route's one drawback: a green dust coating the lower half of the route. As long it hasn't rained recently, it's not too bad.

 Continue up the crack, past some protruding flakes into an alcove. You can get a no-hands rest here while considering the crux, which requires making your way out to the light about 10', and then up through a narrow V-notch to slings around a tree. You can rappel with one rope from there.

1. Climb for about 20-25 feet to a thin crack. Climb the face at this point (crux) then move straight up to the roof above; there is usually a fixed wire rappel station there. Go right about 8 feet or so to a large ledge and belay. 70 feet, 5.8.  

  2. Climb up to the large roof system, then traverse out left (crux) to the nose. Keep going left to a two piton rappel station. 80 feet, 5.6. 100 foot rappel.  

  Intricate face climbing on the first pitch, fun climbing and great exposure on the second.

Excellent corner climbing with a well-protected crux.  The lower part of the route can be tricky to protect well.  While the crux is turning the rooflet midway through the corner, the moves at the top of the corner has its moments!   

  There are two more pitches to the cliff top, which up the route's overall rating to 5.10.  Also, a variation to P1 climbs the face and arete to the right of the corner at 5.10X ("Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too", FA 1985, Franklin and Mills). 

  In early season or after a larger rainfall, the namesake water flow spouting from the base of the route can be several feet high and wide.  You may be able to traverse in to the corner, but - maybe not.

Aside from the final 15 feet of jungle, this route is very clean, exciting and safe! 

  From the pedestal belay above P1 of Shit Creek, follow a hand-sized crack out right past the roof to a small right-facing corner, then up to a small overhang.  Continue up right, following a crack/flake on the arete to an overhang.  Escape left, and continue up the short but very lichened/dirty face to the GT ledge.  

  Beware of a large block that rests on the very edge of the GT ledge - it's very tempting to grab it to mantle onto the ledge. It definitely moves, and it would be scary and potentially unfortunate if someone yanked it loose while trying to squirm onto the ledge (and beware of climbers below!).  

  Make a gear anchor, then walk right to big oak tree rap station.

An excellent pitch that is atypical for the Gunks - more subtle and balancy than usual.

 Look for a right-slanting crack system that starts about 55' left of The Spring (P1).

 P1: Climb up and right, then left through a small overhang, up the crack, and finish with a funky rightward traverse to a fixed anchor that deposits you over The Winter (or continue to the bolted anchor on the huge ledge up and right) 5.8, 80'.

 P2: If you keep going, work back left and skirt the roof above on the left. Then climb somewhat vegetated rock to the GT Ledge. 5.6, 100'.

Wild and scary! The intimidating last roof requires either a #4 Friend or Camalot in a shallow horizontal. Big moves, big falls, and lots of fun.

 Climb a shallow dihedral to blocks. Angle right then back left over some flakes and blocks to a good stance in an alcove. Head up the right-facing corner, exiting left to the face for a few feet. At a good stance, traverse up and right, aiming for the narrow part of the large tiers. Pull over the first roof, then hand traverse left to a small bend. Pull the second roof, place some gear, and make powerful moves through the final, pointy roof.

 To descend, rap or head left to No Man's Land.

Between the crack/corner of Wasp Stop and the chalk covered holds of The Sting is a clean face which looks blank aside from the rails, but hides some nice climbing. This is The Prick, a line that has been toproped many times, led, forgotten about, and discovered again. I enjoyed the process of working out this route- if nothing else, it's something to try after The Sting. 

  The climb starts with a mirror reflection of The Sting's first move, but to a smaller hold and directly over the starting boulder. Gear protection won't work for this move, a pad on top of the boulder does fine. After this, trend up and slightly left. Climb another 11/12ish crux, enjoy a break and gear, climb another 10/11ish section, then climb the crux of The Sting.  

  Potentially, the Wasp Stop finish would create a more direct line, but departs pretty distinctly from the style of climbing on the route. I finished on The Sting, to stay on the wall and keep the climbing consistent (not to mention easier).

If it weren't for the PG-R section, this would be a popular, classic route!  It's long, pumpy, and will hold your attention the whole way up.  The lower section is particularly interesting, with un-Gunks-like holds above small gear.  On a busy day this climb is usually free! 

  Head up a few feet until you can step left and join the obvious crack.  Climb straight up this, exiting right at the top at a ledge with a block.  Step left onto the block, below a right-facing corner.  Make the crucial blue Camalot placement that protects the PG-R section.  Climb up into the corner to its top and pull the overhang to the left.  Head straight up into a V-shaped open book.  From the top of the book, head up, either to the Double Crack belay tree or straight to the GT.  Holy pump, Batman!

Some claim that The Yellow Wall is the best climb in the Gunks regardless of grade.  I'm inclined to agree.  It is awesome. 

  The Yellow Wall area is just right of Bonnie's Roof, and is easily identified as a towering, yellow, tidal wave of rock.  The climb begins from a large pile of boulders (these boulders are about 100' right of Silly Chimney) - you can scramble to the top of these from either side and there's a nice belay area there. 

  The route was originally done in three pitches, but is best done as two, and if done in one, is absolutely amazing (as long as you're very careful about rope drag). 

  P1:  Start up a right-facing corner, step around the corner to the left, and face climb up to a stance at a pin (may be missing -- see comments) and horizontal.  Belay here, or, if you were able to run it out to this point without gear, continue on.  60', traditionally rated 5.8 but I think it's more like 5.6. 

  P2: Climb up off the belay (PG) to a fixed pin which can be backed up with a wire. Step left and pull a roof at a modern bolt (put an extra long runner on this bolt or you will experience lots of rope drag, or, consider skipping it (dangerous), or back-cleaning it.  Face climb back right to a second bolt under the "Mummy Roof" -- so named because it resembles a sarcophagus from below.  Place the #3 Camalot and pull this roof (5.11c crux, with perfect beta it may feel easier, without the beta it may feel impossible).  Climb up and left (PG) to a possible belay in the Mummy Cave.  This was the original belay when done as three pitches, but do NOT belay here - if you blow the second crux you will factor 2 on the anchor.  Place gear and reach up to a hollow flake (please consider not placing pro here - the flake is a crucial hold and has already broken once) over the roof, lieback and step up to a stance in the corner.  Have your partner give you a bunch of slack here so if you fall you will drop into space below the Mummy Roof.  This is rated 11b or c, but is probably 11-/10+.  Climb delicately up the corner (PG13) to a crucial Yellow Alien/0.5 Camalot placement. Turn the arete to the right, and hand traverse 25-30' on easier climbing to a great belay stance (natural gear) at the top of the wall. 

  It's worthwhile to note that if the second falls off of this climb at certain points, it will be impossible to get back on (the falls are safe for the second, however).  Additionally, if the second falls at the crux, the rope can be abraded by dragging across the lip of the roof. 

  Descend from a rap station 100' climber's left from the top out.  Two 35-meter raps (a 60m involves some downclimbing); or use the old school descent, the chimney just left of the route (Silly Chimney).

It is possible to link both pitches with careful use of runners. For those wanting to pitch it out, the below seems to work best.P1: Climb the steep corner to a leaning open book and then bear right at the top to finish at a ledge with a fixed piton.P2: Climb above the fixed piton anchor about 20ft before committing to the well-travelled traverse out left. 40 or so feet of exposed traversing brings you to the Nose's rap anchors.

There are two starts. 

  1a. The original start. Climb the crack just left of Bold-Ville, passing a small corner and a small overhang. Go up another 15-20 feet or so, then diagonal left across the face aiming for a small tree. It is probably best to belay there. 5.7. 

  1b. The Nose variation. Climb the large inside corner further left; exit right, then up the dihedral to the same tree mentioned above. 5.6. 

  2. Move up and left a bit, then follow a shallow dihedral past a fixed pin to a decent stance under a large roof. At that point there is another fixed pin in a short slab to the right. Traverse right about 6-8 feet to good holds, then go past the overhang (crux). Twenty-five feet up and left there is a rappel anchor with two good angle pitons. 100 foot rappel.  

  This can be done (and often is) as a single pitch.  

Climb the face just left of the tree to an obvious ledge on the right. From the ledge, step left again and work over a lip and into an open book (crux). Climb to just below the roof and traverse left to join Lisa. Finish on Lisa.

This route is so obscure it wasn't even worth naming (the number 49 refers to the route number in the old guidebook).  This route is not really bad, just not that good.  The rock is mostly solid but there is a lot of vegetation in the top half. 

  Climb a left facing corner on the wall opposite Double Crack - this is the left edge of a fairly smooth wall.  At the top of the corner, traverse right around overhangs to a lower angle face with lots of grass and lichens.  You'll find a fixed anchor (a couple of pins) over there.  From the anchor wander on up to the top.

A one-move wonder, Oblique Twique is a decent way to warm up or kill time while waiting for nearby routes to be available. The move in question is somewhat reachy.

 Start up the open groove 20' right of The Spring (P1), wiggle into and up the chimney, traverse left, and climb up the open book / corner to a ledge. From here, 3 more pitches of 5.4 continue to the cliff top, but it's easy to traverse left to the shared bolt anchor above the Seasons.

Dick Williams, in his 2004 guide, recommends the second pitch of Full Face (or the last pitch of Lisa, its neighbor 15-20 feet to the left) as a good way to finish Airy Aria, and this is how I experienced it.  It is a really nice little 5.6 roof climb, with an easy walk-off back to the Airy Aria rap tree (two ropes required); alternatively it is an easy walk to the Ursula or High Exposure rappel lines.   

  Climb up the featured face that is 20 feet below a right facing corner with several tiers of overhangs above.  Get up to the first of the overhangs, and find a way to get your hands above the first overhang-- this to me was the trick to the climb.  Once you have your hands above the first overhang, hand-traverse left to great holds from which you escape left to a stance, place gear, and make a couple more pumpy moves to a better stance.  Then it's straight to the top on an obvious path through the heavily lichened face.  The climbing here is cruiser and the pro is good, but it could use more traffic up top.  As is true of its neighbor, Lisa, the last bit of the climbing is a bit dirty/licheny.

This route is probably the burliest 5.8 in the Gunks. There's no one move that will shut you down, but the climb just keeps coming and coming.

 P1: The technical crux is low down (about 20' up) but by the time you get to the top, every move is another crux. If you're not up to the big bite, or if your second is needs a good belay for the start, you can belay in the middle at a decent stance that takes finger-sized gear for an anchor. 5.8, 150'.

 Some of the rock towards the top is not as secure as it could be.  Climb carefully.

 There is a rap station (2 ropes) at the top. Or bushwack/scramble around climber's left toward the top and traverse left to Silly Chimney or High E if you only have one rope.

Scary Area involves wild climbing out huge roofs, complicated gear, and difficult route-finding.  It is quite a step up from its neighbors, The Yellow Wall and Carbs and Caffeine. 

  P1: Begin from the stacked blocks ledge where The Yellow Wall starts.  Scary Area face climbs up to an obvious bolt (a newer bolt right next to an old relic).  There is a horizontal that accepts dubious gear on the way to the bolt, but stick-clipping might be a better idea to avoid an ankle-breaking landing.  The climbing up the bolt is 5.11, and beyond is committing 5.11+.  Don't worry, there is gear up there!  Above the first jug on the climb is a glue-in bolt that presently (2009) has some static line connecting it to some fixed hexes in a horizontal above.  Climb past this and wander up and slightly left to more gear placements.  Continue up to an obvious belay stance at a huge right-facing flake/corner.  Currently (2009) there is a fixed belay here of a pin, two wires, and a bunch of green rope.  This pitch in and of itself makes a great 11+ lead. 

  P2: This is the business.  From the belay, step down and right to a stance on a ledge, then work straight right and back up at a sketchy left-facing flake (R) to a horizontal with a pin.  This pin is visible from the belay, and the horizontal takes good gear.  From here climb up and slightly left heading towards the monster roofs, more horizontals, and gear placements.  Back cleaning gear, or the use of double ropes would be helpful.  Once under the big roofs, hand traverse straight right to a cool, exposed stance.  Arrange some gear here, and then bust out the roof at a weakness (crucial red Alien placements here and a small wire at the lip) just left of the Carbs and Caffeine roof.  This seemed very much 5.12.  Once over the lip, step around the corner to the right and belay off 5 or 6 rusty fixed wires.

Scramble in the chimney, then move right into the right-facing corner.  Move up to an awkward stance and clip the old piton (reachy).  Make "houndini moves" up the blank hanging corner to a stance under the roof.  Exit left to a stance and optional belay.  Continue up easy lichened face to the top of the block.  

  There is a creaky rap station at the top of the block. 

Go up the corner to a ledge that has a good-sized oak tree. Climb to a prominent roof that is just left of the corner (the roof has an obvious crack in it), then traverse left and up to a ledge. Move right a bit, then straight past the overhang (crux). There is a fixed anchor with three pitons about 25 feet higher. I doubt the pitons have been/ever will be, checked or replaced.  

  By 'Gunks standards there is a bit of loose rock, but the route can be done safely. Decent moves and a bit of exposure at and after the crux.  

Some climbs look good but suck. Some climbs look like they suck but don't. This is one the latter. A fine outing for the beginning climber.  About 140' right of Airy Aria and 120' left of Double Crack lies what appears to be a hideous, wet, vegetated corner.  

  P1: The first pitch is a nice surprise - clean white rock on the buttress just right of the ugly chimney. Easy climbing leads to a nice belay ledge.  

  P2: The second pitch looks nasty but the climbing is quite fun - a ladder of good holds on the left wall allows you to avoid ever entering the dank chimney. A classic Gunks pitch - steep but easy. A little vegetated in the last 20' but not enough to ruin the climb.  

  P3: You could add a quality 3rd pitch by traversing left to the 5.5 pitch above the GT Ledge on Lisa.

The first pitch has consistently good climbing. The next two pitches are just okay.  

  Pitch 1 - Pass the triangular roof on right (first crux). Angle up left to an overhang about 15 feet left of the obvious pedestal above. Do a pumpy hand traverse right for 10 feet (second crux), then head up on jugs to a belay perch on top of the pedestal. 100 feet (5.7) 

  Pitch 2 - Traverse left under the overhang until you're able to pass left of it. Aim for two clean patches of white rock split by a crack, above and slightly to the left. Belay amongst vegetation on GTL or the next ledge up, 55 to 70 feet. (5.5) 

  Pitch 3 - Take it 60 feet to the trees, up the obvious crack through clean white rock, featuring a few 5.7 moves.  

  Rappel to climber's right. From the GT ledge, a rap-station tree with slings just to climber's right of Shit Creek will get you to the bolted station above P1 of Blistered Toe in a single rope.  From the clifftop, rap over Blistered Toe to the bolts, then to the ground. 

Start-up as for the The Yellow Wall corner, but whereas that route goes up and left around the corner, "Lost in Yellow" continues up and right on the right side of the corner.  

  Follow a vague ramp up the face targeting the anchors on Scary Area (old green rope anchor).  Our intent was to add a separate and distinct P2 from the Scary Area; instead of traversing right mid-way through P2 of that climb, go straight up, through various roof tiers (multiple cruxes) and exit on the obvious corner to the right of The Yellow Wall exit.  This P2 is an open project if anyone has the time, courage and guns to send it.  (See recent pictures added to The Yellow Wall for some details of this straight finish)

Ivan's gonna see this and kill me.  Props to Ivan (and my partner) for leading this one. 

  This route may be the worst I've ever done at the Gunks.  I'm entering it so people know to avoid it ;-)  Dirty, big loose rocks, bordering on R-rated, and a bit of a sandbag at 5.9 (IMHO!). 

  P1 - Climb up onto a ledge, then climb an obvious crack behind a tree past dirty rock, avoiding as much loose rock as possible.  Climb past even more loose rock to a stance below an overhanging section of red/orange rock, and a right-facing flake to a large ledge with large loose boulders.  Continue to top via the offwidth crack, traverse climbers' left to the Double Crack belay/rap, or traverse right around the sloping dirty ledge to a belay rap tree atop Broken Hammer (where you'll probably need new slings - Broken Hammer does not see a lot of ascents).

This is a great route just left of The Yellow Wall. I think it serves as a good stepping stone to Carbs and Caffeine (though few agree with me). Carbs and Caffeine is in turn a good stepping stone to The Yellow Wall.

 With a 70-meter cord you can lower to the ground from the fixed anchor, and you could easily do it in one pitch, but I recommend 4th-classing it up to a ledge with a tree and belaying there. 5.0, 40'.

 Climb up past a large block just above the belay, and then continue up corners (the path is obvious once you embark). Eventually you will step left and do a 5.10 move to get established below the big roof. Fingertip traverse right (sew the horizontal up with 0 TCU's and other small gear) and pull the roof at a thin crack. This is the crux and can be spooky as it is a bit right from your gear. I've heard that a red ballnut will slot in the crack in the roof, and small wires could be placed as well, but it's very pumpy here. Pull the roof on some crimps, and continue up sustained 5.10 climbing (and better gear) to the anchor.

Blistered Toe is a fun, steeper-than-it-looks pitch of climbing with two starts. To keep the grade at 5.8, start at obvious (but somewhat suspect) flakes about 10 feet left of the crack, climb up 10-15 feet, and traverse right towards the crack. Climbing the crack directly from the ground ups the ante to 5.9+. Climb the crack above, with some jamming and stemming, to a large ledge, and traverse left to a bolted anchor in a right-facing corner.

 P2 is loose and possibly inobviously wet - not recommended! Diagonal up right via 5.4 face climbing, to the path of least resistance up to a large overhang (5.6, loose); traverse left here, then pull past the overhang to easier rock. P3 climbs easier rock to the top.

If you're not good enough to climb The Yellow Wall here's your chance to get some of the same stuff at an easier grade.

 Start at the right side of the Yellow Wall face. A lieback crack leading up the yellow rock starts the route.

 P1: Climb the crack, traverse right, go up a steep (and not completely well protected) wall to a short rightward traverse and the belay. A stellar pitch. Definitely not "G" but not too bad if you just go for it. 5.8, 110'.

 It's also possible to belay at a bolt anchor after 60' and rappel from there if you don't want to do the entire route.

 For a second pitch, you have three options:

 P2: Climb easier rock to the top. 5.5, 70'.

 In his 2004 guidebook Dick Williams recommends pitch three of Lisa, described here, as a good way to finish Airy Aria from the GT Ledge:

 From the obvious rap tree atop Airy Aria, walk climber's right 20', until you emerge from the large overhang that's just five to six feet off the ground. You will see a clean, right facing corner (crux) capped with an overhang. When you get to the top, escape left on great holds, then climb straight up to the top of the cliff. Williams rates this a 5.6+, and I think that's fair. The initial corner seems almost featureless at first but it is all there and there is just enough gear, too. It's a really nice little pitch if you are in the vicinity. Once you finish, it is a quick walk back down climber's left to the GT ledge and the Airy Aria rap tree (which requires two ropes to reach the ground).

 Or, the last pitch of Full Face (pitch 2 only) (5.6) is just another 15-20 feet to the right and it's also a nice diversion.

 Descent: Two ropes to rappel, or walk back left to the Ursula or High Exposure rap lines.

Harder if short.  Williams' Guide says P2 is dirt but P3 is nice.  Almost everyone raps after P1, and many use this climb to set up a TR on The Sting. 

  P1: Lean across the gap from the large block to the main face and try to get in that good cam.  Step onto the face and climb the corner (crux, small wires) to its top, then diagonal up and right past a small overhang to a rap station.  You can also traverse left after the corner to the fixed gear anchor atop The Sting. 

  P3: From the obvious rap tree atop Airy Aria, walk climber's right 20', until you emerge from the large overhang that's just five to six feet off the ground. You will see a clean, right facing corner (crux) capped with an overhang. When you get to the top, escape left on great holds, then climb straight up to the top of the cliff. From here, it's a quick walk back down climber's left to the GT ledge and the Airy Aria rap tree (which requires two ropes to reach the ground).

The difficult, thin face between the The Spring (P1) and The Fall. Climb pretty much straight up (trending slightly left initially), over the overhang about 20 feet up, and then straight up the face to the ledge where the Spring's bolted belay can be accessed.

Climb up to the under-cling next to a shallow right-facing corner. Step out and up into the corner (if you can) and continue straight up. Usually top-roped.

One of the Seasons routes, obviously, the Winter is considered by many to be a testpiece for 5.10. The crux is the thin corner, but you'll already have had to overcome a few challenges before you get there.

 P1: Start below an overhanging right-facing corner ~15' right of Bold-Ville. Make your way up the corner and aim for the fixed tat above. A more secure, modern two-bolt anchor is at the back of the ledge above and to the right.

 P2 (description from Wonderwoman): From the two bolt anchor on top of first pitch of the Spring, move right to the white open book. Continue up the white rock, toward the roof.

 Once you get to a widely gapped horizontal, large enough to stand and take a nice rest on, put in a piece of gear and get ready for the crux! Move left from this ledge for the better holds and high feet towards the roof.

 Once under the roof, place more gear and start heading right to a v-notch (LOOSE ROCK!), where the roof ends. Head up through the notch to the one remaining piton.

 From here, look right and traverse to the anchor on top of the pillar.

 Descent: 100ft rap from here.

1. Climb to base of a thin seam, move past this (crux) and belay at two bolts on a ledge. 5.9, 50 feet.

 2. Go up and left to some left facing corners. At the top of these corners, move right to a large ledge. 5.8, 100 feet.

 3. Diagonal up and right to the right end of the ceiling above. Climb through an obvious notch (crux). 5.9, 60 feet.

 Can't see this one ever catching on - too obscure for most people. But there's a lot of interesting climbing and all three pitches are distinctly different from each other.

Sustained and interesting moves for the grade. Good practice for climbing inside corners. 

  P1: Climb the inside corner to the GTLedge. (5.3 PG, 130 ft) 

  P2: Continue to climb the corner to the top. (5.3 PG, 40 ft)

P1: Aide up 30' past blank rock to a horizontal crack. Aid climb out a black diagonal crack to a ledge.  

  P2: Move left to join other climbs to reach the top.

Tweak or Freak is a nice 5.10 that ascends the left side of the large overhang of which Shit Creek passes on the right.

 While the original start wandered up the face between Oblique Tweak and Shit Creek, most will just start on Oblique Tweak as it is the more direct and better protected line. Climb the chimney up to the flake. Choose your own adventure to get past this, then head up into the right facing corner below the large overhang. Move out left and pull the roof above at the crack. Once established above the roof wander up and right to connect with Shit Creek just before the pumpy hand traverse. Continue up to the shared anchor atop the stacked block pedestal. Above the roof the rock quality deteriorates as you ascend. Climb with care.

Another super-classic route in the Yellow Wall area. This begins just right of The Yellow Wall itself and shares a belay with Airy Aria.

 P1 (5.9, 60'): Begin on the arete just right of the OW corner of Airy Aria, and climb a left-diagonaling finger crack to a nice belay ledge out left. Belay here at two bolts. A decent, well-protected crack pitch.

 P2: Climb up and right off of the belay through a wild system of roofs. There are frequent places to rest -- including a no-hands knee bar immediately below the crux. Reach up and clip a bolt, then pull a difficult move (11a -- but I thought it was harder) to a tenuous stance on tiny holds. There's a second bolt here but it's a really difficult clip and the bolt is total mank anyway -- you may consider skipping it. A few more desperate moves up and right will get you to a thank-God stance and #2 Camalot placement in a horizontal. Climb up more roofs (successively pumpier), to a final ass-kicking, cramped, hand traverse right to a belay stance. This feels almost as hard as the crux move, but shorter folks may be able to cruise it.

 Bolt was replaced in 2015 (see comment).

1. Climb Blistered Toe until you are about 25 feet up, then traverse straight right 40 feet or so and belay. You should be immediately above a small tree. 5.5 

  2. Climb straight up the face (crux 1), following thin cracks. Eventually you will reach an old pin; at that point diagonal right to a small ledge. You will be looking a white face with a thin seam. Climb this face (crux 2) then go straight up to a large ledge. 5.8, 120 feet. 

  3. Move to the left side of an overhang, then go to the next overhang. From the top of a block, move past the roof, then trend up and right to a large pine. 5.8, 70 feet. 

  HBs (RPs might work) for the seam at the second crux. There were no other protection possibilities that I saw and if the nut pulled, the fall would be bad. Not too hard for 5.8 

  The line is indistinct, but the second pitch has some pretty darn nice face climbing. The third pitch is unmemorable, and there is a large rap tree on the left end of the big ledge that marks the end of the second pitch. From that tree you can reach the bolts on Blistered Toe with one rope.

The route description is only for pitch 1 as that’s all I’ve done.  Feel free to add pitch 2 if you’ve done it.

 Climb up the face to a small ledge.  Take the path of least resistance off of the ledge until you're situated below the roof and next to the left-facing corner.  Creative but good pro is available before pulling into the stance below the roof.  Pull the roof and continue up the slab until you reach a wide horizontal capped by a small roof.  Surmounting the roof is the crux.  Continue up to the ledge and walk right to the Blistered Toe anchors.

Locate the short, clean wall in an alcove to the right of the The Yellow Wall. The Sting climbs up a series of horizontals (what else?) in the middle of the wall.

 The start holds a V3-ish boulder problem that is slightly spicy considering the lack of gear and the menacing boulder just to your left. Great gear can be found at the first horizontal. The good holds continue to the final boulder problem before the anchors. I was told that the beta is a full-on double dyno to the ledge, but I have reason to believe that this person hosed me on the beta, thus making me fall and laughing at me. A small crimp offers a static alternative to the ill-advised dyno.

 After the bouldery start, The Sting is a well-protected, pumpy route that climbs more like a sport route given its big moves and relatively steep angle.

 There is a nest of fixed gear (updated in 2020) directly above the route; it is possible to climb Lisa to access it.

5.6+ (Williams guide) - G/PG - P1 100' - Climb the corner, move right to go around the rooflet, then gain a horizontal crack above the roof and use it to traverse 15 feet left to a tree.  Climb behind tree, following "The Nose" (arete) to the top.

last area: High E | next area: Slime Wall

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in j. The Yellow Wall and The Seasons