This short route is recommended only if you happen to be climbing on Saddle rock and not as a destination in itself. In fact, this can be said of most of the climbs on Saddle rock...

From the saddle of the rock while facing South you will see the North Face of the Southern summit. The route follows an awkward line West (right) of a clean featureless slab. A great variation to this exposed 5.2 climb is a 5.5 option that follows a left angling crack that starts East (left)of the featureless slab and ends East of the summit below a fist crack. Scramble around the crack or tackle it for 10 ft into OW territory.

Descent - Scramble South towards the trail

N. Face South Summit / Saddle Rock

N.E. Face / Saddle Rock

In-between Crack

West Face / Saddle Rock

This route is way cool in spite of the brushy start.

The route starts on the Northeast corner of the North summit. To get there, hike to the rock and down its West side, past the NW arete and the North face. You are supposed to scramble up the NE face into a gully passing the word JERSEY written in 1 foot letters on their right in order to reach a small tree on a small ledge.

We were not able to find the start as described by Roach (as above). We started too far West, on the North face proper. We went up a scruffy, dirty, and insecure gully up to the tree on the left skyline. After reaching it, it was clear the correct start was further East (left)....

Once on the tree ledge the fun begins, climb the clean, nicely featured slab for some 50 feet while traverse slightly right. Eventually you will connect with the North ridge. From there, it's an easy scramble to the top.

Nice liebacks in a thin dihedral lead to a thin hand crack and a topout. Go left to walk off.

From Saddle rock trail hike left of the formation down the North side of Green Mountain.Walk past the South summit and the actual Saddle between the North and South Summit. As you pass the saddle continue down some 30-40 yards until a large Dihedral comes into view. This dihedral is a bit bushy and blocky.

The West face route climbs the left side of the broken dihedral for some 50 or feet, heading left towards a ledge below a vertical headwall that sits to the left of the dihedral. Climb the headwall via some burly moves for some 20ft and head up to intercept the North ridge some 40 feet North of the summit.

Descent - Downclimb East and then South to the saddle between summits. Scramble West back to the trail. The are two gullies you can take for this downclimb. The southern one is class 2 the northern one is class four, loose and scary.

Description

Protection

Routes in Saddle Rock