This engaging finger crack will test your thin crack skills or laybacking skills, depending on your preferred climbing method. 

  Start through the choss band and get established on the thin crack.  Work your way upwards to a tricky section passing a small roof.  Pull this get a nice fingerlock jug and obtain a nice rest slightly higher before the final fun finishing moves.

Extra Cheese

Don't Miss Out

Watch Out For That Tree

Hangman

Main Line

Take 'n Bake

Settled Science

Lonesome Dove

Pizza Stone

Unknown Wide Crack

Low Hanging Fruit

Knee Jerk Reaction

Patchwork

Escaping the Tiger

Sinister Base

Checkers

Fine Line

Blonde Ambition

Chess

Tiger by the Tail

Start up easy ground to the first or second bolt.  From here things get dicey!  Layback on slopers past the next 2 bolts to a thank god finger lock.  From here layback or jam (if you crack climb) up to the last bolt.  From here traverse left to Main Line and continue to the top.

A decent moderate clip-up.  A blocky start, then a face that leads to a mantle onto a big ledge.  Above this mid-way ledge you are forced to climb out to the right, where there is a semi-attached boulder that may come off someday.  The first bolt above the ledge is easy enough to get to, but it is a ways up there (maybe use a locker on it?  seeing as there is a ledge below you).  The next bolt above that may be troublesome for some people to clip.  Then face climb to the anchors. 

  The original description, with a photo topo, is posted on Vaino Kodas' website.

Sustained and strenuous! Start left of Lonesome Dove, on the other side of the arete, and to the right of Knee Jerk Reaction. The climb begins behind a tree. Diagonal up and right through chossy rock at the start, clipping bolts as you go.  The tricky business begins when you get to the beautiful, somewhat featureless face. The crux is here where you will go up before moving back left.  You need an alert belayer as it seems possible to fall and hit the tree that is below you, hence the name of the route. After the crux, moving left and then up is great climbing (interesting liebacking) on excellent rock. 

  My star rating is just a just guess at this point, since I could not climb it, I could not rate it. I tried though, and will get back on it. Much of the route description came from Vaino, the route setter.

A great 5.10 route with a stout 11d sequence to pull over the roof. Climb starts in a shallow crack and detaching flake on the climbers right of Sinister Base and left of Pussy Whipped. Heads straight up to a thin seam in the roof, following the seam out and over roof into a right open book. Follow bolts to shared anchor with Pussy Whipped.  

  Reference photo for Pussy Whipped and Tiger by the Tail.

Start up though some overhanging choss in a corner, being careful not to pull anything off.  Pull the bulge and head up the dihedral.  Can be climbed using face holds, stemming, or crack climbing.   

  Gear is plentiful the entire way up except for the very top, but if you look there are placements.

Start at the base of the big leaning block known as the Pizza Slab. Climb past three bolts to the top of the slab. Lean over left to clip a bolt on Pizza Stone and then join Pizza Stone.

No need to think for yourself on this one! If you are already on the far left side, this route will fit nicely into your agenda.

A Palomas classic! One of the best moderates here, and quite a popular warm up. Start in the dihedral left of Patchwork. Stem through the first 2 bolts and head left onto the face. The crux is after the 5th bolt.

This route is just right of Blonde Ambition. Start just left of the Pizza Slab and climb up into a right facing corner. Follow this corner until you can exit left near the top to gain a brown face. Near the last two bolts avoid the small cactus and lesser quality rock on the right. The finishing anchor is just right of the anchor for Blonde Ambition.

Basically an exercise in technique to just stay in the crack, as one could also ascend this probably just using face holds. 20 or so feet of excellent squeezing (if you're a slender fellow) and then you round the chock stone and the fun (or punishment) is pretty much over. Traverse left at the top to use the webbing to rap off the tree. The squeeze is pretty much unprotected, unless perhaps if you carry blue big bros. Some imagination may yield better placements by the chock stone. Smaller gear (#2 or #3) protects the short traverse to the tree. Will update info as needed, as I know nothing about this route besides how it climbs. Would get more stars if it were longer, but if you like wide, it's a fun little stop at the crag. 

This is the 5.10 variation of Hangman.  Climb the first two bolts of Hangman, go straight up to two new bolts and finish on Hangman again.  The crux is around the 4th bolt.

Start to the left of Watch Out For That Tree and Lonesome Dove. Head straight up through junky rock, the first bolt is worthless (its around 5 feet off the deck), but can be clipped if you are frightened with the rock quality. Head through a bulge and wander to the right, through a crack, and then left under a large roof block. The crux is as you pull around the roof block. There is a second crux higher up, which is likely more difficult for shorter people. A long reachy move.

Start to the right of Lonesome Dove, and left of a large prominent crack. Climb the chossy looking rock through the bottom two bolts. The crux is before the second bolt. Continue up through nice face climbing to a recess in the wall. From here, the climb completely changes character. Clip the 9th bolt and from here there are two ways. You can go left, which is easier but a pendulum fall could result in disaster. Heading straight up is the better choice.

A pretty decent moderate clip-up.  Go up the short face and follow the left-leaning corner system (the first 4 bolts are shared with Tiger by the Tail). Stay left in the corner system past a 5th bolt to the anchor. 

  Previously described by Moret (2003) in the online guide, and by Jackson (2006:283-284).

Start up through the choss band clipping closely spaced bolts.  Just before getting to the roof clip another bolt (long sling here) and break left pulling the tricky roof.  Sustained climbing leads past another no holds crux to easier climbing at the top.

Careful climbing will get you safely through the choss band at the bottom (it actually climbs fairly well for choss) - the business comes at the middle, with a few thin sequency moves to the fixed nut (glued in - seems bomber). The route merges with Chess at the nut for a shared topout. I never remember which is chess and which is checkers, but both go at about 10c, and both are excellent routes. In fact, I'm going to submit this same description for both climbs, as it works just as well for either. 3 stars only because the interesting climbing could be more sustained

This challenging line ascends a thin seam of excellent limestone with challenging footwork.  Its possible to make things easier by using the larger crack three feet right of the main line.  For full-value, use all of your thin-crack skills, pasting and rand-smearing your feet.  After the 4th bolt, things get a lot easier with great crimps and face holds.

Careful climbing will get you safely through the choss band at the bottom (it actually climbs fairly well for choss) - the business comes at the middle, with a few thin sequency moves to the fixed nut (glued in - seems bomber). The route merges with Checkers at the nut for a shared topout. I never remember which is chess and which is checkers, but both go at about 10c, and both are excellent routes. In fact, I'm going to submit this same description for both climbs, as it works just as well for either. 3 stars only because the interesting climbing could be more sustained.

Go up the short face and follow the left-leaning corner system (the first 4 bolts are shared with Pussy Whipped).  Then move right onto the steep crux headwall past the final 2 bolts. 

  Previously described by Moret (2003) in the online guide, and by Jackson (2006:283-284).

Has many moderate 10's and a few good great 11's. Here you will find the most climbers at Palomas.Has a 15 foot band of chossy rock at the base of most of the climbs, be careful in this area. Most routes are closely bolted at the bottom for this reason.From right to left as you approach this wall.Go 5.10c/dChess 5.10b/cCheckers 5.10bPatchwork 5.10bLonesome Dove 5.9+Watch Out For That Tree 5.12bKnee Jerk Reaction 5.11cDon't Miss Out 5.9Tiger by the Tail 5.9+Escaping the Tiger 5.9+Hangman 5.11dSinister Base 5.11cExtra Cheese 5.11c/dFine Line 5.12aMain Line 5.9Blonde Ambition 5.11c

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (09) The Far Side II