The Broadmoor

This is a good 6 pitch route. The 2nd pitch is probably the best pitch.

P1. Climb P1 of

Dynamite

, 10, 8 bolts, or P1 of

Maternal Damnation

,10, moving left past an additional bolt to the anchors on

Dynamite

(semi-hanging), 10 bolts.

P2. Move up into a pod going left higher up (9+) to enjoy a great bit or rock. An optional #5 Hex or large wire (2/3rds the way up the pitch) and 8 bolts provide protection.

P3. Climb left onto a rib (10-), and follow bolts through a bulge to a ledge.

P4. Continue up a headwall (10-), hop an overlap, and go up to a a belay (a #0.75 or #1 Camalot will reduce the runout).

The original climb ended here. All pitches are about ~90 feet. You can rappel route with a 60m rope from here.

P5. Traverse left, and then angle up to the bolts at the base of the P5 on

The Brown Palace

/P4? of ?There's Something About Mary?), 50 feet. A #2 & #0.75 Camalots (4 R) and a bolt protect the pitch.

P6. Finish with P6 of

Brown Palace

, 9 bolts, 10+.

You can rappel

Brown Palace

with a 60m rope, or climb up and traverse to the rappels on

Devil's Backbone

.

THE STANLEY HOTEL is another optional finish

(FA: Gillett, with Chris Hill, 2010).

After P1-4 of The Broadmoor, continue up and right eventually to the summit, not easy to rappel off.

P5. Traverse right on a ledge from the belay, and cruise up a ladder of jugs (3 bolts, 5.3) to a ledge, clip a directional bolt, and move right on the ledge for 20 feet to below an overhang and belay bolts on the top of a ramp.

P6. Climb a cruxy overhang (11 for tall folks, harder for shorter folks), and move up a short 5.10 wall to a 2 bolt belay on the right, a great ledge at the base of a water tube (4 bolts). Short folks can aid the roof with a long sling or two. A judicious belay spot can keep the rope out of the way of the leader, perhaps dropping down the ramp about below the belay.

P7. Move up the water tube to the top, and belay at a tree (6, 80 feet). A #1 Camalot, a large and a small wire, slings, and two bolts protect this pitch.

Descent for The Stanley Hotel: scramble off the back side of Mary's Bust to the rappels on

Devil's Backbone

. If you can't surmount the 5.11 overhang, and don't want to aid it, downclimb the 5.3 5th pitch and then rappel the original route.

A bonus TR: if you stop earlier and rappel the route, you'll have a TR set up between

Dynamite

and

Maternal Damnation

with 5.11- face climbing.

The Broadmoor lies above and left of the P1 of

Dynamite

, 30 feet left of the hole at the base of the wall. One can also start with

Maternal Damnation

; it begins on a ledge immediately left of the hole. See the topo.

Bring 14 QDs, a #5 Hex or large wire, and a #0.75 and/or #1 Camalot. #0.75 and #1/#2 Camalots are suggested for the continuation to The Brown Palace. For The Stanley Hotel, bring a #1 Camalot, a few wires, and a couple slings. Obviously, if you link pitches, additional quickdraws and longer slings will help reduce drag. You can link P1 and 2 (beginning with

MD

) for a more comfortable belay on

Dynamite

. You can link P3 and 4 for speed (beware of potential ledgefall).