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Peak Mountain 3

Groundhog

FA B Heipler, A. Guthrie, 4/'74
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Description

A summit route at 5.3 without caving? What more can you ask for? This climb is a bit broken up, to say the least, but still has some fun for the party who is competent at placing gear, but doesn't want a physical challenge.

Climb up the intial wide crack though the chunky-looking rock on good holds and the occasional jammed body part for a short pitch, to reach an initial ledge with trees. There is an optional belay from one of these (sometimes fixed slings are present).

Continue up and left on a second crak to a larger ledge and belay on that one (manditory).

From that ledge, walk or scramble a half-rope length on the ledge and over some blocks to the left to reach the base of an overhanging chimney (optional belay) before shoving oneself up through that slot and onto the tower summit.

Location

A set of passive pro and cams to #4 camalot + long slings.

Protection

It is easy to find this route by first locating the obvious clean flake of 'Curving Crack' and then walking 15 meters left to the next obvious crack system, where the climb is begun.