Ultramagnetic MCs

A surprisingly moderate and well-protected face climb that simply eats as much gear as you can throw at it for the first half, then steepens and follows three bolts to a spacious ledge and bolted anchor just left of Godzilla's. Quality rock for a Calico Hills first ascent.

Start with an mantel on black rock fifteen feet left of Godzilla's start to a shallow corner that takes gear. Follow good pro and intuition up fun features to a steeper, bolt-protected upper wall to anchors. We rapped Godzilla with a 70M since it seemed very possible that we wouldn't make the ground with a single line.

I used double cams from 00-.5 and found a set of offset brass to be useful in addition to a set of stoppers. Lots of slings are a good idea since pro is plentiful and zigzags a bit from crack to crack. I appreciated a red C3/green alien size piece near the top between the last two bolts.