- Edit (TBD)
Magic Daze
Description
Come one come all to the latest and greatest main cliff moderate! Magic Daze fits well with the very popular Model Citizen and Crowd Pleaser. As an easy route with good protection in a convenient location it is bound to see traffic. Another positive thing is that it leads right up to the anchor below Stairway to Heaven and provides access to all of the great climbing on the upper level there.
Start by walking up a slab moving right to left. Clip a bolt mantel an easy ledge. The bulge above is one of the 5.7 moves, It is best to stay right, in line with the bolt pulling a balancy mantle into a corner. It can be tempting to move around to the left but the climbing isn't as interesting, rock is looser and bolt is farther away. Up the corner on easy ground to the base of a right facing corner with a layback crack. Combine laybacks, Stemming and a few face moves to get through the corner and on to the final slab. two more bolts guide you to the anchor. Pick the line of least resistance and it should feel pretty easy. At the anchor don't forget to take in the view... breathtaking.
Location
Between Magic Helmet and Charity Case.
Protection
9 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
Routes in Main Cliff Right
- 2Magic Daze5.7Sport